So I have an 89 240 that’s getting an sr into it. If i want to delete some stuff to clean up the engine bay, like the abs (bend new lines), a/c and put in a MAP instead of MAF, would I still be able to run the stock ecu with a piggyback system? If I take too much stuff out of the original set up would the stock ecu just have to many problems that a piggyback couldnt fix it? Thanks
Hmmm, MAF to MAP sensor? I’m not sure which Piggyback would take care of that; but definitely not the stock ECU. lol.
A/C and ABS shouldn’t be a problem. I’ve had both of mine disconnected with no changes. No problems.
But the maf/map stuff you’d have a problem with. Now why would you want to change it to a MAP sensor? I can only assume you are not doing any major upgrades, otherwise you’d use something larger than a piggyback. If this is true, do you really need a MAP? Upgraded MAF should the trick for the power people will likely put out.
You don’t need a MAP unless your going for high horsepower. Just get a 300ZX MAF, Q45 MAF, or even a Mustang Cobra MAF and those will be more then enough for you. Like said above, obviously your not going very big if your getting a piggy back system.
if u are cleaning up engine bay there is tones of shit that can be removed! all that un necesarry junk that the ignitor chip is bolted to…that can go, EGR, charcoal canister, A/C get an electric fan, u should only need 2 vacum lines coming off ur intake mani, one for wastegate and one for BOV/BPV, there is a few other things u can do to make it clean. look at this sr20, this is my friend allens he has by far the cleanest engine bay on here right now!
Well the thing is that I really do want to be pushing more then 400. I know everyone wants mad horse like that but I’m really aiming for that with a fully built bottom end, bigger turbo like the gt2835, v-mount, and I could go on, but talk is cheap. I just want the map because of the effects that a blow off valve has on maf’d high powered engines. Although the fire spitting is cool everytime you shift, I have heard that its just not good in general for the engine. ( I dont understand why, because if it runs rich enough to shoot fire then all it is doing is wasting fuel, and fuel would just cool the internals, so i’m kinda confused :? ) ANYWAYS, I’ve heard that a full stand alone computer is way too confusing, and takes alot of time to tune, so if i just used the stock ecu as a baseline and then used a piggyback system then wouldnt it be able to be programed for the map? Theres also the fact that I’m gonna need knock sensors, a fuel managment system, boost controller and smaller controls for stuff like electric fans. I really could use some experienced people to guide me as far as picking it. I’ve read alot of articles in my mags about the different brands like AEM EMS, but I wanna know if anyone has used any of them.The thing is that i’m not really a rich kid, I just love cars, work just about everyday and am still in high school, so I have nothing else to spend my money on. Thanks a ton
What about brake booster?
Power FC d-jetro has MAP sensor and everything you will need to get to your 400 mark. But you dont even need that. You dont need a MAP. Pretty much everyone on here has a Z32 or cobra and they are able to get lots of power from that. Sounds like you got lots of plans and goignt o pretty cool. Good luck with everything and keep me posted!
Everything sounds fine, but my only suggestion is that if you are planning over 400whp, then a piggyback just isn’t going to cut it. You will definitely (in my opinion) need to step into the world of standalone etc. No one said getting 400whp is easy, so you’re going to have to suck it up and get tuning; it takes time.
The SR already has a knock sensor, and units like the powerfc already monitor it, but its accuracy is debated.
He’s right man. You have to pay to play…
I just went back and found an old super street with an article on the AEM EMS. They were tuning a supra with a t-78 turbo or something ridiculous like that. It was throwing down somewhere like 500 and it was still “streetable”. They tuned the fuel and timing through it and said it was fairly easy. The only thing is that it says it plugs into the stock ecu harness, and no wiring is needed. It sounds pretty good to me, so has anyone used it before or known anyone that has?? thanks.
I’ve seen and played around with the AEM EMS. I can tell you it is a very complex standalone, more so than the Power FC. If you have no prior experience tuning any sort of standalone ecu you will have problems. Not to mention the base map included with the EMS is not much to work with.
IMO the Power FC is a better choice for SR20 motors. It is widely used by the nissan crowd so has better support. As someone already mentioned the d-jetro version can be used to convert over to a MAP based system. The downside to the Power FC is you are limited to tuning with the commander.
As far as streetability goes, any standalone ecu is “streetable” if tuned correctly. IMO there is nothing on the AEM EMS that makes it more “streetable” that the PowerFC if tuned correctly. I’ve ran a Haltech on my impreza for over 3 years. I had no issues once i got the initial tune down. A friend of mine also runs the Hydra EMS that i helped do the initial tune. No issues on his daily driver.
With this siad, i’m actually looking at different rom tunes for my sr20 powered silvia simply because its easier and less hassle. I’m also aiming for lower power goals(300whp max) so i’m sure that makes a difference.
Like stated above, ANY standalong can make a car streetable. That has nothing to do with it, it’s all in the amount of power you are planning. If you are trying for like 500whp, then no, I wouldn’t consider a 240 with that, very streetable. A reall “simple” standalone would definitely be the SDS system.
One thing I’m still confused with is the Power FC. Now the commander is the connection controller that is hooked up to the power fc, right? And alot of people say that tuning it is really hard from the F.C… Now does this mean that it cant be tuned from a laptop on a dyno? I really beleive that if you need to have something like the f.c. or ems then you should have it dyno tuned, becuase then you’ll be gettin all the power from the parts you worked your ass of for, and the car will perform at its best. Thanks
The PowerFC controller is what makes the changes to the powerfc ecu, without it, it’s useless. The only other way to change the settings on the FC is to have a datalogit program you have to buy separately, for like $500. Then you can make some of the spreadsheet changes through excel programs. The changing of parameters, like A/F settings, is the same with the datalogit program, as with the commander. You still have to do the same things. Having the laptop doesn’t make it any easier to tune, just faster. It’s not like you just push the “tune” button, and it does it all for you.
Any standalone, or any vehicle with significant mods should be tuned on a dyno. The only real way around this is if you own a wideband O2 sensor; then most of the tuning can be done on a nice open road.