Hey guys, just wanted to get some of your thoughts on what you all feel are the best Stand Alone Computers and why? Or maybe some different ideas.
I am running a fairly stock SR with just an after market header and manual boost controler.
I would like to be able to tune it for both better fuel econ, and better performance. Not at the same time seperate settings.
Maybe there are other ways to approach? What are your thoughts?
Thanks,
to do mild tunning you don’t need a standalone, a good piggy back will allow you to select what sub systems you want to affect. the E manage with inj. loom and /or ign. loom is a good way to have full control over either or both functions and still leave the rest of the sensor and inputs on the stock ECU…
Mega squirt has a more hands on approach where you can build modules to take over specific functions induvidually or en masse.
for very basic and not overly effective tunning you can use the basic Safc II or HKS S-afr both do the same job to fool the computer, but it’s not a great way to effect your changes properly.
mechanically you can also affect changes by using FPR’s that are rising rate or aftermarket ign. boxes like MSD or crane to control ignition retard and spark on boost…
there are allot of way to accomplish low to mid range tunning… just a matter of what works best for you given your needs.
If you want to do things right and you are planning on running more boost in the future standalone is the only way to go. Piggyback units like the e-manage and SAFC are good and can support the needs of the majority of enthusiasts that have relatively simple upgrades but the best way to make the most out of your engine is to go with a unit that gives you or the tuner the maximum amount of flexibility.
You really have to ask yourself how far do you plan on taking your engine program. If you are going to change the turbo, headwork, and pistons I would invest the standalone option. If you are only going to turn the boost up or install a larger turbo a piggyback system will suffice. However, you’ll find that upgrading the turbo involves a larger fuel pump, injectors, manifold, and external wastegate so by the time you finish buying all of those components you’ll have already invested quite a bit of money and taking the plunge for a standalone won’t seem so steep.
I have an AEM EMS plug and play unit for my KA24DE and I think that it’s the way to go especially with the built in wideband which is a must have piece of equipment. I have total control over my engine and I can upload various maps for fuel, startup, timing, etc. for whatever situation that might arise. A friend has the SR20DET version and loves it as well, you can’t beat plug and play. I had the e-Manage and it’s a good unit but you have to buy seperate harnesses for the injectors and timing as well as the software for the unit.
I also have an EMS and it is absolutly amazing, but i want you to understand one thing
you do not need SEPERATE maps for fuel economy and performance. Under cruising conditions (low rpm, low load, low throttle) the car will be running lean with the most efficient timing possible for maximum fuel economy, and when you tromp it the car will add fuel as neccessary for boost and adjust timing for boost and rpm as well. So dont think you need to flip a switch to go into “high performance” mode or anything like that!!
Sasha is right, your fuel economy will vary according to how much you are in boost or not. I wouldn’t want to upload a specific map for just cruising around. A boost controller like a GReddy Profec will do a good job keeping you under control with a high setting of say 15psi and a low setting of 7psi for crusing. You get the picture.
Well, you do flip a switch…it’s called the throttle peddle. 
LOL…Hey everone thanks for the info, good stuff to know. How much do you guys pay for you AEM EMS systems, and where.
Thanks again!!!
Being the poor studenty kid, I suggest emanage with the opional harnesses. Sure emanage is just a piggyback and cant be tuned nowhere near as fine, but it rox SAFC’s world and it costs 1/5th of the price of a AEM standalone…
the new black box Emanage ultimate is one of the best buys now… it’s very much a standalone unit giving you almost double the functionality of the older blue or gold unit. It is, for all purposes a standalone system … the ECU is simply a bridge out to control minor functions, like a sub processor to the Emanages main processor.
Buying a haltech, motec, link sys or Stinger as a stand alone is still going to need a professional setup requiring allot more money spent on dyno and bringing in a qaulity tuner. Another option is the direct port standalone, like the WOLF or microtech pre programmed and re programmable but without the headaches of having to tune it locally. Not sure why people would go with the AEM setup… the cost vs. what you get with the product is not differnt then a Haltech at $800 less. or Stinger at $1200 less.
Your best option may be a JDM tunned OEM ECU box. thier are so many variations that you can pick and choose what you want without having to wait too long for the right one to come along… these are generally the cheapest and safest way to go. everything is done and as long as you stay close to the parameters they new ECU is programmed for you get maximum performance…
Microtech doesn’t come pre-programmed it has to be dyno-tuned as does the emanage or any other engine management system if you are to extract the maximum performance from your engine. I wouldn’t go the JDM ECU route if I were you. If you are budget minded go with an SAFC, an emanage ultimate will run you $1000 http://www.businessvision.net/edge/Main.asp?D={54F7D3D6-59C2-41D7-A938-33764B32E6F2}&PageType=Product&SKU=15500501&CategoryID=544849&DisplayMode=Category&PageNumber=1 Building a fast turbo car isn’t cheap and when you start taking shortcuts it will cost you more in the end. If you have $1000 to spend I’d suggest saving that money towards an AEM EMS. Plug and play with ultimate flexibility yes it’s expensive but you get what you pay for. Just swapping stock ecus gained me 3hp on the KA and 10hp and 15ft/lbs with VERY minor tuning. There are others that have made gains in the 20hp range with the AEM with minor tuning on the SR.
ok so the guys with the AEM
what did it cost you?
I mean to buy it, get it installed, get tuned.
all said and done. I am sure there are a few people that want exact numbers
I know I do, I need to plan for the winter.
AEM EMS is plug and play and it comes with base maps.
You install and there is no tuning necessary initially.
All you have to cover is the cost of the unit.
I am leaning towards Power FC. I plan to make more power over the
years so I feel it’s a worthy investment.
Along with the Zeitronix wide-band.
And there is always the option to upgrade by buying the DataLogit unit to
allow the FC to interface with a Laptop/computer.
The PowerFC can be had for under $1200CAD.
Not to mention there are people on FA trading/sharing their maps.
I can’t think of any other stand alone system that’s fairly budgetable
and not all that complicated to work with (besides all the DIYs like MegaSquirt, etc.)
AEM EMS is going for about $1600USD (according to eBay) + $500USD for the O2 wideband.
$2100USD = $3200CAD after taxes :noes:
For that kind of money you have a full Haltech E11V2 system and fly in a tunner from Gotham racing, or a MoTec 400 with the MoTec digital dash.
Microtech has allot of preset parameters that cannot be adjusted out by the end user. your also limited with it’s use by the fact that you are required to use the OEM sensors or sensor voltages. To go from say a rx7 FC to rx7 FD you’d have to buy a whole new unit. even though they are almost the same in regards to pin out and wiring placements.
It’s completely up to the end user what they want to use… but spending double what you really need to spend is not always a prudent idea. Before you buy take a look at Wolf in Australia and the E manage ultimate. GOing full standalone on mild or med mods is not required.
power fc = yummy me wants one
You get what you pay for in aftermarket performance ask anyone. The 1600U comes with a built in wideband senor and you have the capability to tune the engine according to air fuel ratio. The AEM cost $3000 plus 2hrs of dyno tuning $150 and the car runs great with minor tuning.
A Power FC will cost you $1700 new without tuning and I doubt that it will fire up after just plugging it in. Add another $500 for the wideband and 2hrs of tuning $150 and you are already at $2350 and you still don’t have all of the features or capabilities that the AEM has nor do you have the factory support (very important). Now add on their boost controller $651 and you are at $3001 and you still don’t have traction control, nitrous control, boost over gear etc. A full blown Haltec cost $1300US/$1500CDN that doesn’t include wiring it up etc. A good unit for sure but why go through the hassle of rewiring a car (I’ve done it before) when you can plug and play?
Some people want an Apex-i or HKS because it’s percieved as “JDM” or cool when you should really be looking at what will give you the most bang for the buck. I’d put a Microtec in before a Power FC as I know Microtecs will fire up no problem initially. Whatever route you go a wideband is a must especially since they are reasonbly priced.
BAS is right you have to seriously consider what your needs are going to be down the road. If you aren’t going to be making upwards of 350hp than go with a piggyback. Honestly, the AEM is easy to work with and I’m no tuner. You get what you pay for, do it once do it right.
Gonad if you are looking to make more power in the future than you should look at a unit that is able to facilitate your needs. There are many EMS users on www.aempower.com in the electronics forum. At any rate I hope you guys find the right system for you just make sure that you do some research and I definitely wouldn’t buy an engine management system from Ebay. If you can’t afford engine management then you shouldn’t be upgrading your engine, it’s like buying a car audio amplifier online you never know what’s wrong with the unit until you install it.