Alright, so I go to start my sr20 tonight…and it slowly sputters and turns over, as soon as it turns over, it just starts to rev, so I shut it off before it gets to high and blows something. Anyone know the reason why this may be doing this? I did a wally pump, but I dont think it has anything to do with the fuel pump?
Also I cant get dash lights or my cd player to work, but the windows, lights inside, and everything else is fine.
You JUST did a Walbro pump and this happened? Then it would be the pump that is causing the issue. Possibly faulty FPR? Did you have anything else apart?
no the fuel pump was done a while ago. I’ve been doing a full sr swap. I was told it may be a throttlebody issue? or a leak in one of the vaccuum hoses? I also dont have the cruise control cable hooked up because I dont have anywhere on the sr20 motor to hook it up.
But it was running fine before? If you were messing around with the throttle cables, it could be too tight, and it is pulling the throttle plate open, causing the revs. A hose undone would cause it to increase in RPM, but I don’t think to the point where it would get worrisome. Then the car would just run like ass.
At either rate, check the throttle cable, and check all hoses and piping for leaks.
k cool thanks. Just one quick clear up. I have a vaccuum line going from the throttlebody to a 3 split: the other sides go to the fuel line? looks like a little wastegate. The other side goes into the blow off valve. I have a empty nipple right beside the other one on the right side (looking at the TB) which is where the hose from my boost gauge goes right? and then under the top of the bov (Greddy Type S) is the little nipple, where the wastegate hose goes right? just making sure all my hoses are connected properly 
There shouldn’t be any empty niples, unless they are capped.
That ‘wastegate’ looking thing on the fuel rail is your fuel pressure regulator.
The rest of it sounds about right. Not too sure on the BOV extra nipple though. Not familiar with that BOV.
Follow this can cap the rest.
http://www.sillbeer.com/vaccum.php
Check your thorottle cable (should have a tiny amount of free play)
Also try unplugging your TPS and see if that makes a difference.
A screwed up maf sensor will cause similiar symptoms. My old cavy used to do that and it turned out to be the maf. Pull it out and give it a good cleaning with some electrical contact cleaner and check for any cracks etc…
I got it working, runs good only problem is the electric fan on my koyo isnt kicking in. and the temperature ends up going through the roof, any ideas? I have the pos to pos and the neg to neg going into the koyo, is it suppose to be opposite?
well…other then the fan problem…the RPM’s seem to idle pretty high at around 1300-1500 
and after a small amount of driving, the RPM’s will go from 1500-2000 in sort of a shifting motion, and will continue to do so until driven again. I’m gonna lower the idle, but any idea on why it does the rising and lowering between those specific RPM’s?
ok ajdust your tps as per the FSM. then the fine adjustment comes from your idle air control valve. If you look between number 2 and 3 intake runner you can see a plastic screw. Adjust from there. But double check your TPS, and adjust that FIRST.
As your fan. It should be grounded (body or battery) but run through a thermostat first and the positive should be straight off your battery. Test your fan by hooking it directly to the battery (should spin) and then get out a test light and go from there.