SR20det i dont no what its doing.

Hey, guys got a redtop sr in a s13 chassis 1990.

The motor has:

-t28 s14 turbo
-greddy fmic
-300zx tt fuel pump
-exedy stg 2 clutch along with short shifter

  • metal head gasket
    -greddy type s bov atmospheric
    -megan tubular manifold
    -stock rad
    -electric fan
    -small batt
  • 3 inch from turbo back
  • and adjustable fpr, because supposedly to control the tt pump

I kow its a lil more info than needed but, i just wanted to let u know just incase its important. The problem im having is once the car hist boost it bogs and doesnt move. The ecu throws code 34 and i have changed k/s bypassed it ect and it still comes on. If i reset the ecu, and turn the car on the on position i get 55. Once the car starts and u take it off to check the ecu, code 34 is on.

Im willing to pay to have this problem resolved. the previous owner said that it might be the crank timing.

this could be lots of things, mainly ur vac lines from the wastegate, Maybey they are not conected properly,

On Idol everything is fine?

but before doing aything look online what code 34 and code 55 is…

IIRC, code 34 on the KA was EGR function.

I’m not sure if the SR’s have an EGR so idk

code 34 on sr’s is knock sensor… check the wiring for the knock sensor under the intake
mainfold…

hey man not sure if this is the same problem but mine had the knock sensor code too, i changed it wit a new one, did the resistor trick still nothing, tried resetting ecu still nothing, code 34 knock sensor always, and car would like hit a wall at boost and and just bogg, mine was oil pump that was failing slowly causing my head to starve of oil damaging my rocker arms and cams(reason for knock) resulting in a rebuild, trust me i tried everything to try and solve my issue before opening my valve cover, just take a look to see if your cams and rockers are all scratch free, and also if you can check the rocker faces for grooves
just a thought cuz it can be just the ecu doing its job and keeping your motor from hitting the boost range to save your motor…

let me know how it works out
Chaz

So, the the summer is here and im still battling this stupid problem… Well talked to the previous owner who put the motor in, and he stated it was a gradual problem… The car would get worst and worst, to the state where it is now. Chaz i haven’t got time to check the valve cover yet because of exams but once im done exams i think the smartest place to start would be there. Would the timing chain rolling around on the crankshaft be a major issue… the guy changed the head a few times a i believe. Im really starting to give up. BTW how do i know if the oil pump is dieing?

The car will not boost past 2psi… it hits boost and just stays at 2000rpm under load i have to clutch in rev and clutch out to get some pull in order to get the car past like 40 km/h… but at idle it revs up like its suppose to, but the motor shake a bit at idle with maf plugged in. Without plugged in it kinda smooths out? but can be due to bad gas as the car has been sitting all winter. I guess if worst comes to worst a long block should fix everything unless its wiring related. He said he changed the maf too? theirs an extra one in the car.

I thought the Lexus’s luxury would be enough for me to say bye to s-chassis’s but just sitting in the car feeling the stage 2 clutch and shifter setup i really don’t want to give up…

Again im willing to pay to get this car running how its suppose to… i just dont feel its necessary to take it to a shop just yet.