OK so i did a full rebuild on my sr20det over the winter and used just stock internals cleaned up the head machined the valves and whatnot.
The only real engine mod was hks cams 256 on intake and exhaust.
So my car is running super rich even at idle i resurculated the bov as well.
MY real question is how about do i get codes from the computer. I did some reading and what iv come up with is that the wires that go to the dash connecter that u dont have to hook up to get the car to run are for engine diagnostic. Is this correct and are they just colour to colour or do i have to do something different.
Its a s13 blacktop engine with a code 64 computer i beleive.
im getting code 55 and it says Other Malfunction. CONSULT Terminal Required
what can i do to find the problem im running really rich and runninm a ka24 e maf could this be the problem.
hey man i have a consult plug thingy that i can hook up to my laptop. dont you live just around the corner from me? if you want swing by some time and we can hook your car up to it. i think there are only 3 wires to hook up the consult plug. i forget i did mine last summer.
I was just checking on the internet what 55 meant i was unaware.
But its not running ok. i mean i can smell gas pretty bad and the mechanics at my work say there is way tooo much fuel its not right you can smell it out the tailpipe.
It holds an idle ok but if u flick the throttle to say 3000rmp it will almost die and it bogs real bad and take some time to come to idle rpm.
iv been told by actually 3 people now that you can’t a ka24e maf without a tune and that is a possibility why there is too much fuel.
You need an SR20DET maf. The bogging at 3,000 you describle however, is making me lean towards a MAF problem. Have you cleaned the MAF sensor internals lately? If you haven’t cleaned it yet, try that before replacing parts. A dirty sensor will produce the problems you speak of. An error in the MAF sensor (a dirty/improper MAF sensor) can cause the ECU to severely miscalculate the engine’s air/fuel ratios, thus giving you that heavy fuel smell. Your ECU is running in safe mode right now, thus the 3,000RPM hesitation. Clean the MAF, then if it doesn’t work…we can look at other options.
Hope this helps :D!
Ah, I see, ^ KA24Power has the right idea, check your fueling components. It sounds as though you’re getting too much fuel then. It could be in fact, your injector is stuck open or your fuel pressure regulator is shot. I was running crazy rich on my RB (failed 2 private trial-run emissions tests) and I found it to be my FPR…I replaced it with a stock one for now, but a Nismo rising rate is on it’s way (highly recommended if you’re looking for a new one and are planning to beef up your SR).
A bigger cam will contribute to the problem but I don’t think its to blame. The cam lets more air into the cylinder, but the MAF would be able to tell by the increased air intake and would adjust the fuel map accordingly. I’ve never seen a car throw so much fuel in ON PURPOSE that the engine started bogging.
Like I said before… if it was getting an abnormal voltage signal from the maf it would throw the code!
My car had a faulty TPS sensor, and a faulty ECU. It wasn’t sending a 5v constant from the ECU to the TPS, and as a result it wasn’t getting anything back from the tps. Because there was no signal and it had no idea how much throttle I was giving it the computer went into “limp” mode. It just threw way too much fuel in but was still drive able. The thing with that was it ran like crap in the low end because it was running too rich but as it got higher in the rpm’s it ran better, because the mixture was closer to ideal.
His car runs WORSE at high rpm, so something else is to blame. FPR… larger fuel pump without proper regulation… injector stuck open… etc.
im going to be checkin fuel pressure on monday or tuesday i do have a walbro fuel pump.
its not that it doesnt run at higher rpm its whenthe throttle is released that bogging accures as it goes to idle it drops to say liek 300 rpm andsome time dies.