I was wondering if anyone knew or knew someone that knows how to adjust the shims that go between the valves and the rockers? It doesn’t have to be just a sr20det cause im sure theres more then this motor that uses shims for this?
i just posted this question in another board…hopefully they can help us out
well I plan on redoing the head with new rockers and shims. I know you have to use some sort of dial to get everything adjusted but i just wantto know how…
“you get new shims. pretty much all there is to it. get the cam rotated to the back end away from the lobe and you take a feeler gauge to the gap between the rocker arm and the cam and measure that. buy new shims according to what you need. remember though, you’ve two shims and it rests on two different shims, you’ll need to size them accordingly.”
thats from a guy on the board and here are a few other suggestions:
"Well with the SR20 motor, there are Hydrolic (sp?) lifter setup that automatically adjusts so that you don’t have to adjust the shims. From what I understand with this set up there is almost zero up keep.
Do you need to purchase new shims?
Could you be a little more specific on what you are doing. Are you changing cams? -Or- just performing some needed maintenance? "
"Since each rocker arm pushes on two valves, the “shims” make sure that the rocker is level, i.e. the lash surface is parallel to the cam lobe surface, so that the cam pushes down evenly on the rocker.
In reality, there is actually one “shim” and one “guide”. The rocker arm has one leg machined to fit into the guide, and the other leg sits on the shim. Dont put the unmachined leg on the guide, it will break, I have experienced that.
There is procedure for measuring and selecting what thickness shim to use, it is the SR20DET FSM, which can be downloaded from any number of places. the best procudure is to label the parts you removed and reinstall them in the same location.
The hydraulic lash adjusters only adjust lash between the cam and the rocker, they dont influence what shims you use on the valve stems. Yes, they are zero maintenance, but make sure they are fully bled before installtin, if you have removed them. That procedure is also in the FSM."
hope it helps…lemme know man and good luck
Im not sure if i have hydralic lifters or solid because im not sure what makes them hydralic because when i pulled them out they were just a solid and i couldn’t compress them at all. So i thought they were solid unless they are hydralic and they move up and down inside the head by oil pressure which this could also be true.
Anyone know how much a feeler gauge is and where i can get one?
any ardware store will have one. If you don’t know what one is, then you shouldn’t touch your motor.
I know what a feeler gauge is but I don’t think i ever seen one in a parts store. And don’t thread jack either newman… No one needs smart ass comments about if i know my motor or not.
i know the ka24e and ka24de ( i have the ka-e) are hydraulic…im not sure about the SR , but try both methods…the first “knowledge” i sent you was from a moderator on that board and has built over 4 Sr’s so i would take his word to be the truest
[quote=“SR20drftSX,post:9,topic:25628"”]
i know the ka24e and ka24de ( i have the ka-e) are hydraulic
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negative on the de.