SR20DET Starting Issues

SON240sx Automotive
1

Ok, so I’ve finally decided to ask the question as I’ve tried diagnosing but nothing seems to have been resolved.

Since the day I bought my 180 (beginning of '09) my car has always had a weird starting issue.

It’s normally an every start kind of thing but the odd time it starts just fine.
9 times out of 10, when starting it will crank over either within 3 cranks or 5 cranks. Each time it does this the idle will dip to anywhere from 400 to 0. Sometimes it stalls and wont crank over for another 6 or 7 cranks, and sometimes it won’t even die. After reaching it’s low point it will jump up to my normal idle and stay there as if nothing had happend.

I’ve had this problem only during starting. Once started the cars a champ. It idles beautifully and runs nicely. This is my only issue right now and I’ve yet to figure it out.

  • SR20DEt Redtop
  • 3" cat-back
  • FMIC
  • t25 turbo
  • Manual boost controller
  • Re-routed vac.lines (No leaks)

This problam has been happening since the day I bought the car so any modifications I’ve currently done within my engine bay have not affected it.

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Mike

/werd

2

martino…does this happen only on cold start ups? or happens even when engine is warm?

my car just started doing something like this…super low idle drop for a few seconds and back to normal, but cranks over fine around 2-3 cranks.
it started happening when i tapped my water temp gauge wire to the oem water temp sensor…mite be interrupting the signal and cause it not to run on cold start mode…thats my guess.
u check for any codes on the ecu?

3

I had someone suggest the cold start issue. Have yet to try anything to check it.
What code would it be throwing if not to run on Cold start?

4

Rb motors do this. I cant remember what the part is called but the sensor that adjustes and regulates the idle on start up needs to be replaced or cleaned.

5

^^^^^^^coolant temp sensor maybe?

6

No its the one that automatically adjusts the amount of air to enter and no its not the maf. Tabarnak i cant remember the damn name

7

youre thinking of the IACV

its possible it could be that

hook up consult and check

8

yea, maybe seafoam it and see what happens? ill b seafoaming mine soon…l don’t know about what code causes bad startup/non functioning cold start.
coolant temp sensor/water temp sensor…same thing…thats what i connected my aftermarket water temp gauge to and it made my engine go weird on startups…jus started happening like a week or two ago.
but if you got nistune…or maybe hookup the consult to a laptop you can see if it goes to cold start mode and what not

9

I just checked the ecu for codes. It runs a 55 which according to some research means shits fine, so I’m not to sure what else to do.

10

Mikey do you still have consult?

11

Mike, I think I know what it is. Your car is broke.

I’m good.

12

Its no Hyundai

13

my car does that sometimes on cold start. If I leave the key in the “on” position for like 3 seconds before cranking to let it build fuel pressure its fine

14

I would be checking your IAC visually anyways.

The RB’s have an IACV and a AACV (idle air and auxiliary air (called an air regulator via Nissan) )

I know shit about the SR’s, but I do believe they only have an IACV. So I would pull that out and clean it up. Maybe clean your TB as well.
Check your TPS readings, could be staggered and choppy or just out of wack.

Check the simple shit first. If you have, then double check.

15

Hey Martino I’ve been having the same issue with similar setup, except mine is swapped.

I serviced my IACV and check the resistant being 10ohm and also applied power to see the solenoid move. So I pretty much ruled that out. I was having a cold start issue but I adjusted the FICM (not tps or idle screw).
I’m going to be checking fuel pressure,plugs, fuel filter, coils, ignitor and MAF.

16

not right now but im trying to get one next week

if i do ill let you know