definitely check code, and even though it’s tacky i would use some sort of modern drop ceiling so you can still access important stuff in the future.
I agree on the drop ceiling. The PO had drywalled part of my basement ceiling, and now I have to remove it all to gain access to running new lights. Other option would be to re-run all your wires in one location and just make an access panel for that location, and drywall the rest. Might be more work than it is worth though.
For the ceiling it all depends how baller of a basement it would be.I know head room might be a issue.My room is in my basement.No ceiling,could care less.Def dont drywall it.
DO NOT USE WOOD! use the metal studs that they have. mold restiant drywall and whatever sealant on the walls = man cave.
permits…HAH you only need those if people catch you!
yea i know some towns make people build big windows with stairs outside them to escape. IF you plan on using it like a bedroom etc.
http://custombasement.com/images/homearama%20048.gif
http://www.newmil.co.uk/graphics/window%20in%20ICF%201.jpg
Why do we need to do this…
because he says so
http://www.mar-flex.com/images/Brett_Fireman.jpg
once do make it look like this
I wouldn’t sweat the permit, but don’t think you are making anything you can legally sell as a bedroom either (without an egress size window or door)
X…
Yes i plan on making it a recreational room, Laundry Room, Storage, and Bathroom with Urinal lol. not a bedroom or income property as its only a single family house with already 4 bedroom and 2 baths. enough for me.
That sounds excellent.
So basically
Drylok, Vapor Barrier, Metal Studs or Pressure Treated Studs, Vapor Barrier agian, Mold Resistance Drywall! Then Build!
I would have to do a drop ceiling…as the lower point of the basement are the Heating Vent from the Furnance which is about 6ft but everthing else is about 7.5FT. But agian all the wiring and plumbin is up there so Drop Ceiling is my best bet.
double vapor barrier?
Please do some research outside of NYSpeed. There are plenty of online resources.
Stainmaster carpet might make the room more comfortable without letting moisture soak in and thus no mold forming? Just throwing that out there.
Those pics make it really hard to tell what you’re going to finish.
My basement is about 1200sq ft and only the laundry room has any exposed wall (which is drylokd) and it is a mix match of every technique. I have raised floors, carpets on concrete, tile on concrete and tile on particle board. I have wood paneling on walls as well as drywall. I have drywall ceilings as well as drop ceilings. There are benefits and disadvantages to everything. If you want to check it out let me know.
lets hear 'em. I am interested
PRO - The drywall ceiling is above the “living area”, and it looks nice.
CON - You don’t want to run wires through that ceiling.
PRO - You can run anything above a drop ceiling (cable, speaker wire)
CON - The drop ceiling is relatively cheap looking (not the nice kind)
PRO - The unfinished ceiling is nice… if you’re doing stuff to the crap you can see.
CON - You can see all the crap.
PRO - The wood paneling is easy to remove and put back if you ever need to get behind it. Very easy and cheap.
CON - It is wood paneling.
PRO - Drywall walls help the area feel more like a room and less like a basement.
CON - You have to screw with drywall when you have to get behind the wall.
PRO - Drylocking a wall is the cheapest worth while finish that you can do in a basement.
PRO - Being able to see your foundation can be very good.
PRO - Running wires and anything else is easy.
CON - You can still see the bricks.
CON - That feeling of an unfinished basement.
PRO - Raised floor would allow probably 1000 gallons of flood water into the basement without it hurting anything. The concrete floors would be 3" under water.
PRO - I have a nice bathroom down there and the plumbing for the shitter has to go somewhere. I think it also helps the tiles stay warmer down there.
CON - You’ll break your fucking toe if you forget about it.
CON - More work/cost.
CON - You can’t see the floor, which hides potential problems.
PRO - Concrete floor with tile is nice and solid.
PRO - Concrete doesn’t ever creek.
PRO - If the floor gets wet… nothing will be hurt.
PRO - If you spill something, there is no subfloor to worry about.
CON - Cold. (Nice in summer)
CON - Still have the feeling of an unfinished basement even though there is several hundred dollars in tile on the floor.
These are from a homeowner’s point of view. I not a master carpenter but I do all of my own work.
Might as well add some other stuff while I’m in here -
Keep everything off the floors. Even furniture. Put it on blocks or something.
Dehumidifier is huge. I got lazy this year and I just threw out a couch, recliner, blankets and pillows. I saved about $2 in electricity and threw out over a grand in shit.
Get a backup of some sort on your sump pump. I haven’t yet but I will this fall. Water backup for me.
When there is a downpour you can hear all the water going into the sump container and then it kicking on but nothing get wet even on the rainest days. my garage can be 6" in water but my basement will still be dry with the water draining into the sump non-stop. I guess $5000 worth of drain tiles and did the job for the basement.
the pictures of what the basement wall looks like the shelves will come down once i start to drylok the wall and frame up
where is the water coming from that is turning on the sump pump if your basement is dry? weird
from what i know its is water that sit againts the foundation and the outside. it drains the water from inside the cinder blocks. [my basement is cinderblock foundation not poured foundation]
ah ok. something with the pressure of the water against the walls/floor. Makes sense. In that case you can probably have the humidifier drain into that.
Drain tile is supposed to go into the sump and then removed from the house and surrounding areas. It is basically removing all of the sitting water from around your house to save the foundation.
People who say their sump never runs should have their drain tile inspected. It isn’t for removing water from the basement as much as it is removing water from next to the house to away from the house.
The sump in my house was added long after it was built, so not all of the drain tile would be tied into it. It does not run often, but it does run.
I have also put a ton of drainage in my backyard so that not all of the water on my lot drains right past the house. Houses are not built the same in all areas…
for example, my foundation is backfilled with clay, and according to town code, I’m not allowed to run perforated drain pipe within 3’ of it because it will cause water to run along the outside of the foundation
Im in tonawanda too. where about are you?
My backyard is 6in deep of soil/dirt and then all clay…that why my backyard is like a swiming pool and who ever build the garage buld it 6in under grade… who the f does that?