well, it won’t crank at all now… it was intermittant, not it won’t start. i took the starter out and had it tested, its still good as well as the soleniod. cleaned the battery terminals and connections as well as the starter connection. i’m pretty sure the key cylender is still ok. what else could it be?
clutch switch? loose or broken wire? could still be the ignition switch.
i’ll have to get a better look at the ignition switch but i’m also thinking about that clutch switch (is it also called a neutral safety switch? even on a stick) and where would that switch be located?
it should be mounted down by the clutch pedal. look under the dash, when the clutch is pushed in it should contact the switch and push it in. you could take it off and jump it to eliminate, if the problem goes away then buy a new one.
ok, i’ll try that out and see what happens
mines starting to do the same thing! i have to really press down on teh clutch to start the car. ive read 240s have bad grounding points so check the grounding points under the battery tray and on the engine 
mine were rotting away so i ran some 4 guage amp power wire to a few points!
good luck
i jumpered across the clutch switch and still no start.
i checked and cleaned the main ground (on the intake manifold) and its good to go. i’m gonna have to have someone else try and crank it, cause i think i can hear the soleniod engaging, but when they tested the starter, it worked every time.
have someone check the starter with a meter when you try and start the car, that will rule out a starter problem…at least at that point you could try and trace it
napa tested the starter and they said it was good. advance tested it and said it was putting out 110 amps where it should put out 125.
i’ll have to do that next
turns out the car works normal now, but before it started working again, i figured out its the key cylender on the column… i want to take that out and look at it really good, but there are no bolts on it. how the hell do i take the ignition key cylender out?
i think they’re set up like the door locks, a c-clip holds them in from the inside, take the column apart and start lookin
i have it apart, its a 2 piece mount. the top part has the key cylender and the bottom is attached to it around the column, its just so damn hard to see around there. i’ll look for a c-clip
i’m just guessing that’s how it’s held in i’m going by the way mine is (which isn’t a 240 but can’t be that different) obviously it’s not bolted in, and it’s not screwed in there aren’t many options left on how it’s held in, either by snapping in place or clipping in place.
when you crack it open it is either held in by a set screw or the you just twist it out … there may be a set ring on it to …
but when my firebidr did not start and there was not any thing happening there is a box that when you turn the key it pushes a rod in to the box. and it starts . the box worked loose
set ring = c-clip lol
have some one crank it and c if your geting the right voltage at the started as kurk said after that just trace it back to the rerlay and further
well, the back of the key cylender was loose (the actual switch part) i tightened it and it works fine now. thanks for all the help