I was wondering if someone could give me some help with my stereo wiring. Does anyone have a diagram?
Ok, here I’ll list all the wires and their function. Note these are from an 89 but they should be the same.
1st connector:
red - rear left spk+
green - rear left spk-
blue - rear right spk +
pink - rear right spk -
2nd connector:
blue - +12V Acc
red w yellow stripe - illumination -
red w blue stripe - illumination +
red w black stripe - +12V Battery
brown w white stripe - FR spk +
brown - FR spk -
blue w white stripe - FL spk +
blue w yellow stripe - FL spk -
now i noticed some of them have dots on them different colors… will it still be the same? by any chance could i get a diagram of the 2 harnesses with lines pointing to each wire for what they are, because most of them are what you say, but a couple are different
If theres dots on the wires, then thats the stripe im referring to.
ok MOST of them match… ill tell you what doesn’t:
1st connector:
red - rear left spk+ got it
green - rear left spk- got it
blue - rear right spk + dont have it
pink - rear right spk - got it
the ones i have are red, green, light green, purple & pink
2nd connector:
blue - +12V Acc got it with white dots
red w yellow stripe - illumination - got it
red w blue stripe - illumination + got it
red w black stripe - +12V Battery got it but it is blue striped
brown w white stripe - FR spk + got it
brown - FR spk - got it
blue w white stripe - FL spk + got it
blue w yellow stripe - FL spk - got it
and i’ve also got a black with red stripe
can you re phrase this with whats what…
what would be much better though is, a diagram showing both harnesses and telling specifically what each metal contact does… then the wiring isnt a problem because i can follow my other harness on my deck…
thanks!
still need the help, diagram would be perfect…
How hard is it to at least TRY and find it on Google first? Why am I doing this for you? You damn noobs!
What do you want, someone to go take a picture for you? Look at the wires, see how they’re different colours?
This is stereo wiring, not rocket science. If you are still lost after reading this, then you should probably throw your new stereo out, and light your car on fire. Then get in it.
THANKS thats almost what i’ve been asking for for the last 5 days
yah im a noob? only to this forum, jus this damn nissan has the stupidest harness around… Throw my stereo out? not a chance man… I’ve probably got one of the best systems here… NO DOUBT!
thanks for the info though!
Dude no offence. You claim to have one of the best systems here and you can’t wire it? Anyways that link is what I have but i had to figure mine out because its a bit different. Thats for a 1991-1993.
If you have one of the best sytems around, and can’t wire it, you should
probably take it to a professional to prevent damaging your system.
P.S. You are a dirty liar, I have the best system around.
Im not a dirty liar, and i never said I have THE BEST system, i said one of the best…I can wire systems no problem and decks too, but this is very confusing because of these uncommon wires with dots, compared to all the other harnesses around that are normal colours with stripes…
So like i said… Thanks… but you guys seem a bit mouthy because im asking for a bit of help :shock:
Yah and if your curious about my system i have
1 Pioneer Premier 840MP Dual Motorized Face Deck
2 12’’ JL audio W3 subs
1 JL 500/2 Amp
2 JL Audio 3 1/2 coaxials
2 JL 6.5 Speakers
2 Kicker 6x9’s
1 Sony 2.100 Amp for the Kicker 6x9s
1 JL audio 400/1 AMP
1 Accucap Digital Capacitor (1 Farad)
its now done, thanks all.
later
If you have all of those beautiful stereo components, use a test light to find the power wires and run a decent guage speaker wire for everything else. At the very least you can use a multimeter or continuty tester to ring out the speaker wires since you will have the speakers out anyway. This will save you from having to worry about getting a diagram and will ensure 100% that all of your polarities are correct. I know you are already done by now but this is a time saver for anyone else who reads the post.
Yah i have a multimeter, which helped me get this right…
Thanks for the help, and its good for anyone who ends up the same pile of SHITTT!!
Where could i grab a test light anyways, i’ve heard that there very hard to get a hold of and only stereo shops are the only ones who have them…
Thanks
Why would they be hard to get? It’s a pretty simple device. Nothing special.
They are hard to get ahold of if you can’t get a ride to Canadian Tire which
sells them for $4.99 or $8.99 depending on the model. Its a friggin prong
and ground wire, not very complicated. Any mechanic would have one, not
just stereo shops.
I would advise away from the test lights. They have to potentia, to fry computer systems. Dont ask me how becasue I can not remember, But I can tell you that in the buissness you dont do that. Spend the 20 and get your self a volt meter with continuiety testing.
well i guess im wrong, i’ve never seen/used one myself, just what a guy told me when i was having the wiring trouble…
ahh ill still grab one though…
ya, its true. I worked in a sterio shop. Volt/amp meter’s are much better. the way to mess up your car is if you connect your test light to your ground wire and then touch the ignition(keyhole). This isn’t the only way to screw up your cars electrical system. Volt/Amp meters are simply a computer reading numbers, and arent necessarily connected together(circuit is closed), but the test light is an indicator which closes the circuit, thus causing the light to turn on.
so be advised.
AHAHAHAH “digital” capacitor… That is the biggest crock I have ever heard!! It ranks right up there with the power ratings written on the side of the amps… I guarunteed you that your amps are NOT making the power they advertise!
DO NOT BUY A TEST LIGHT! Test lights require 1.5 Volts to turn on the little LED. This means that they are drawing current through the circuit that you are trying to test (could be upwards of 150 mA). Air bags need less than 100 mA to deploy… do the math. Even test lights that claim to be “computer safe” are not! They do not specify what computer! Pretty sure they test those on computers that use cassette drives!