you have the 168 tooth, or the 153 tooth flywheel? If you have a 153 tooth, you can run a newer 4.3L mini starter on it from a newer blazer. I’ve been running one on my big block for years. More clearance + lighter.
Sounds like a cool idea to me. I believe its a 153 tooth flexplate, but I emailed the guy I bought it and the converter off of just to make sure.
Heres a horrible cell pic of the engine in its resting place:
Starting to put all the brackets and pulleys onto the front of the motor, I have already painted them gloss black. I also ordered a TCI Starter that should work with my flexplate, and ARP Bolts for my Water Pump Pulley. I also bought my lower and upper rad hoses, just stock replacement rubber hoses.
I still need to figure out the brackets for my power steering pump, I may be missing one of the brackets. I need to run fuel lines and figure out what fittings I need, run transmission cooling lines, do all the wiring and get rid of what I dont need, get an angled thermostat housing, figure out my vaccum lines, how tall of a carb spacer to run, and buy new carb studs depending on the spacer among other small odds and ends. Also need to figure out/buy throttle and kickdown cable, and I need to install my shifter but they may have sent the wrong one so Ill have to check on that.
I also need to figure out what Im going to do for a return fuel line, anyone have any suggestions?
Its coming along…hopefully itll be running within a short period of time…
looks great. do you need return line on your setup? typically with mechanical pumps you don’ tneed it
Thanks. 
I figured Id need a return line for the excess fuel. Am I wrong?
it depends on how much pressure that pump makes. you probably wont need one.
A return line is a good idea to help combat vapor lock issues in the future. You would need a pump with a return, or a fuel filter with a return line. With a ‘return’ system, the fuel is less prone to getting hot, since it circulates back to the tank what is not needed. In the 60’s & 70’s, the A/C cars had a return line from the filter, due to the higher underhood heat of an A/C equipped car.
SUM-EDL21 (Summit Edelbrock Performer Series Street Fuel Pump)
That is the fuel pump Im running. As for the fuel filter Im not sure what Im running but its spliced into my fuel line under my rear seat under the car. I wasnt planning on running a filter between the pump and carb. Need any more info? Im guessing I should run a return line like I thought. Any special way to run it or line to use?
It doesn’t say anything about a return on it.
My setup uses a standard pump and a filter with 1 inlet & 2 outlets. The outlet runs back to the tank via 1/4" line. Your car probably has a return line in it already. You can even use the charcoal canister line.
Yeah I had a Charcoal Canister in the car. Deleted the canister but I still have the line on the car, and thats what I thought Id use to save some time and money. Now do I need to extend that line from my frame rail to the carb since I have only 1 Inlet/Outlet in my fuel pump?
You may want to look intoo a filter that will allow you to do this. Mine is an OEM replacement AC filter & is not really the best for flow. It’s what they used in 1966.
Sorry I havent been around guys. All my free time has been taken up by my car and girlfriend, but Ive gotten alot more done!
-
Bolted Front Bumper On
-
Installed Turn Signals
-
Rewired Fog Lights w/ Switch
-
Wired Electric Cooling Fans w/ Switch
-
Installed NightShaded Tail Lights
-
Installed Battery & Ran Cables
-
Installed TCI Starter
-
Installed the Front of the Motor Brackets
-
Installed Alternator & Power Steering Pump
-
Installed Both Tranny Lines
-
Installed Power Steering Cooling Lines
-
Widdled Down Wires & Put Rest in Looms
-
Installed Alternator Belt & Power Steering Belt
-
Filled Rad w/ Coolant
-
Installed Coolant Overflow & Washer Bottle
-
Clocked Fuel Pump
-
Installed Dual Feed Line on Carb
-
Ran Flex Fuel Line From Dual Feed to Fuel Pump
-
Bolted Grounds In
-
Wired in Battery, Alternator, & Starter
Still have a small list to do, mainly run the fuel line from the fuel pump to the original line alongside the driver’s strut. Should be doing that today tho. Have to install the Shifter, and some other small things too.
good luck you sound pretty close to firing it up.
She runs, and sounds damn healthy! 
Adjusted the valves, got the idle as low as we could for now, and started to install the shifter. We had a problem getting fuel to the carb, but found my dad had the inlet/outlet on the fuel pump switched lol. Fixed that and she ran fine. 
Have an oil leak I need to take care of on the oil pan, and a tranny leak from the cooling lines. Both should be easy fixes, but need adressed soon. I still need to bolt the valve covers down, and some other small things, but shes getting there!
Just hope there isnt anything wrong with this tranny, I bought the TH400 for $200. It had a stock rebuild and shift kit done to it in 01’, and the guy never used it. I bought it a few months ago, and got the receipts of how much he paid to get it done. I was told its ok the tranny sat that long, but we’ll see. :eek4: Other than that I still need to find my speedo cable lol.
:bigok:
:mullet:
Thanks :burnout:
Haha if I had a mullet Id wear it proudly with this car… :hsugh:
On a side note Ive been saying Id have to modify the YPipe I had to work with my Headers, because I went with a 7 Qt oil pan and its supposed to wrap under it. Well Justin (Orr89ROCZ) came out today to look. He gave me a set of Hooker Shorties and a YPipe to try before we went ahead and modified by shit. Well turns out these will work, and this Ypipe will flow a little better than mine. It wraps behind the oil pan right by the converter, but everything has clearance, its great. Just have a few small things to do, finish up the shifter install, and get her idling at lower rpms, and set the timing right. :boink
awesome. getting close to finishing a customer’s project and it is exciting to see the end hopefully lol
[QUOTE=Stippy17;755184]
[QUOTE]
lmao at dustin.