stripping the paint off my car / Matt black

how can i strip the paint off my car? its a corvette stingray and has been repainted long ago, shits all peeling. I want the car painted mat black and need some suggestions. Also , I could use a nice matt black on my shit box grand prix too but that wouldnt require any body work, just a spray over would be fine. The vette needs the paint taken off down to the fiberglass. Whats the easiest way to strip the car and prep once down to the fiberglass? Im thinknig chemical stripper and some sort of glaze. Also anyone good at spraying mat black? shoot me a price if you can do it.

also. to the wise asses. No rattle cans.

First why does it need to be stripped?

Unless the paint it lifting from the original surface, or the car was repainted already and another paint job would be too many mls thick, it doesnt need to be stripped to bare surface.

There are so many variables at play here.

Chemicals on fiberglass are not a good idea. And most of that car isnt fiberglass its plastic.

post pics of the car and the issue sites you need to deal with.

As for paint, anything can be matte cleared. Any base under the sun can be shot with a clear with a flattener added to it. The single stage stuff like Hotrod Black or the Classic Flatz from paint companies are the easiest, since they are single stage.

Flat finish is cool, but its a bitch to keep up on. Since it cant be buffed, waxed, etc. So if you cant lay autobody paint well, get uneven coverage, dry overlap, get runs, sags, drips, dust, dirt, bugs, etc you are fucked. No nib, cut and buff to hide your mistakes. What you shoot is what you see.

http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/HRF201.aspx

bust out your paint gun and giver her hell.

Price to do the job is 100% impossible to give accurately without seeing the car.

$1000 to $20,000+ would do it. Color change? If so jambs, under hood, trunk? If under hood, motor out already? If motor out, is it cleaned and de-greased? Any body work needed? Panel replacements needed? Filler panels need to be made from scratch?

yea the paint is lifting everwhere , has a lot of little bubbles. i guess i will paint it my self if i have to… just dont see how i could sit and sand all day,theres gotta be a way to get it off with less pain.

LOL at less pain and autobody work.

I am doing a color change on Love4Boot’s eclipse right now at my shop. “hows the body Dave?” “Mike its mint, very little body work I think is needed”…

15hours later I smoothed out a door that had a good dent and a faint ripple he didnt even notice.

Most would look at his car and say DAMN thats a clean ass DSM (when he first bought it). No rust, no lifting paint, just a few dings, dents, etc here and there. 10 feet away even car guys wouldnt notice them.

I JUST got the issue spots in slicksand primer last night. Car has been in the shop for 2 weeks. I have easily 60 hours in the body work on the car, doing the job right. And it doesnt even have a lick of paint on it yet. 99% of a paint job is in the body work, and prep. .5 is the painting itself. the last .4 is cut/buff time and the .1 left is final assembly.

Daves job, easily carries a $4000+ price tag if it wasn’t for me working out the Ducati deal with him as payment. And $4K is CHEAP for a quality color change like this.

I need to see it to tell ya what will work best. Post some pics.

I would ONLY use a chemical stripper if it MUST 100% the entire panel go down to bare metal. As in the doors my brother started on the 41 plymouth at our shop the last few days. stripped front and back 100% to bare metal. You cant just chemically strip spots.

it doesnt have to be perfect… if i get the car all stripped how much to spray it ? Also how much to spray over my gp?

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s179/turbograndprix/DSCN2276.jpg

I only see one little bubble spot going on there. Actually that thing looks very good in the pics.

Is it on the road? any chance you can drive it to the shop so I can give it the once over?

What do you want to do with the jambs, trunk and hood undersides, engine compartment, etc. As you know there is alot more work to do all those pieces too.

If it wasnt as clean as it seems, masking off the door, fender, hood gaps, and painting only the exterior panels would be, OK, if it needs to be done on a budget. it will look good until someone opens the doors of course.

usually I look the car over, and ask for a budget. Then return with what that budget will get done on said car and work from there.

If bumpers, trim, inner fenders, under hood insulation, door trim, gaskets on the pinchwelds, under trunk trim, etc is pulled by the owner its less labor I need to do, and less cost of course. I will work with the customer if they want to work with me.

Its off the road for the winter. the pics make it look not too bad. i would be doing the whole exterior including the door jams but it doesnt have to be perfect by the door pins and such. There is no trunk, i could pull the hood real quick. Interior will be out. I can also help every step with either car.

where is the vette located? If you are not in a rush, I can set time up next week one evening to swing over and take a look at it and we can go from there.

What about under the hood, firewall, etc. thats the bitch of a color change. the doors, jambs under hood and back sides of the doors are not bad at all.

If you arent stripping it down entirely, for the engine compartment, i would mask off just up to the step over to the fender You know how a fender “hangs” over the inner fender… that 1" or so L shape I would mask up to, leaving the inner fenders and such yellow or what ever the OEM color is under there.

When I see it, i will go over things with ya, and if a commitment is made I will give you a list of what you can do to help same time and cost. Sounds like you are on the right track though. Lets make it happen!

sounds good, the car is in colonie near albany , let me know when you’re in the area and can take a look. Hopefully the car doesnt have too many issues that need to be addressed before this can happen. I think the body mounts in the very front need to be replaced because the headlight bezel housings hit the bumper and wont go down. Not impossible , just an odd job that i need to look into and do correctly. Also i plan on semi- restoring this car, new chrome steering column, full interior, headlight actuators, heater core, wiper motor , window track clips and pulleys, radiator , gold bbs callaway rims , matt black exterior… on and on

paint would hopefully resemble this-


I normally hate C3’s but damn that car looks sick in flat black with the wheel flares

that yellow looks pretty good dude

thanks singh… but it really is terrible in person, theres huge spot of paint missing all over , it seems to be peeling up pretty good, which makes me think some kinda chemical stripper would lift it up so easily. Don’t get me wrong, car looks pretty good driving by but up close pretty ragged.

Id go on a Vette forum and see what theyre using to remove old paint. Fiberglass is different than metal and might absorb chemicals, making painting it a nightmare

Wow the flat black looks awesome. Something out of mad max

YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE OLD PAINT TO REPAINT A CAR!

lol

If the paint you see now is stuck to the surface, that paint is scuffed and is now your “primed” surface. You can shoot it with a primer/sealer if you need to, or just basecoat right from there.

Only time you remove paint, is in restoration work in which the new paint will put the mill thickness way to heavy, spots are lifting, or body work is needed.

And you never, ever use chemical strippers on anything but METAL panels. Plastic like bumper covers and Saturns, or fiberglass like some bikes and this car would first off distort the panels from the heat from the chemical reaction and will also absorb the chemicals, making it almost impossible to get any primer to ever stick to the surface there after.

PM me and we can set up a date I can swing over and check it out, and go over it with you if you are interested in having us paint it.