most of those motors have a bad head problem esp with oil leakage ya may not see it as its all over the underside of the car
I drive down with the fiance following me the whole way, I can’t believe no one saw anything.
not to mention the fact that I just had the valve cover gaskets all replaced.
You have to check oil frequently, its not uncommon to have engines burn oil with no noticable leaks or issues.
apparently. I definitely should have checked it before autox. :banghead
…but whats with the oil light, why wouldn’t that come on.
pressure was prolly there ,just gettin airated esp seein as the way scoobs dist oil at the crank and rods …basically centrifacal forces can and will force oil away from them
'00 should certainly be a phase 2 motor.
Slapping in just an Ej257 shortblock and expecting to run off the RS ems is going to be a big can of worms you don’t want to get into. It’s piggy back stuff on top of already finiky motors. Realistically if you’re at all planning to turbocharge this car, you need to go with a complete EJ-T swap(engine and EMS/harness) and go from there.
Believe me, it can and has been done successfully, but where cost and time are not such a factor. FWIW, I think it’s going to be just better to build a solid P2 rs motor for the car now until you can do a complete swap.
Prime example…Taylor got fed up of blowing the 30r powered P1 motor with piggy backed EMS and now is just swapping in a complete Ej257(built) with all oem EMS and harness.
There are a nightmare of head/block combinations to work with but you start getting into quench and CR talk that’ll fill up pages of text here.
Oil light illuminates below 5psi, not low oil level. As stated you’ll cavitate long before pressure drops off, and even before that the oil film will break down due to low volume/flow and the subsequent increased temps.
Dummy lights are shit. Get a real gauge.