well, no. i mean, i’m not trying to take a shortcut to solve a problem… i’m trying to reason out the best option. I’m at a bit of an advantage because i have a newer hot water tank and can either add to it or replace it all together. I don’t have an issue with just pulling the tank out and putting a new tankless in place…but if i have to get something that will allow me to flow 15GPM+…i see the cost increasing exponentially. I basically have 2 showers within one unit capable of flowing 20GPM total (Hot & Cold) .
If i go with a tankless…will i be able to use a 10GPM tankless to support the shower while maintaining decent pressure?
If you jack the temp on the hot water tank it will start heating sooner. As it will want to keep a constant temperature. This valve splices into the pipes after the outlet of the tank.
I like that you went with numbers and math, I just have a problem with this number. In February, just based on feeling the cold coming out of the tap, I don’t think WNY water is anywhere near 65.
Yeah, not too sure what the actual temp would be. I just assumed. But looking into it I would definitely not go by those numbers. Don’t know if this is more accurate (Ground Water versus Supply Line): http://www.noritz.com/u/US_ground_temperature[1].pdf
For a 600 GPH 50° rise you are going to need a 100 gal water heater with a dual 199 heater. (600 gph is the equivalent of a 23 room hotel, I think you are WAY below that mark) Do not run it in serial, you have to run all water heaters in parallel.
Side note: to go from what is most likely a 50° incoming temp to an exit of 140° you will need 90° of rise. We have 70° down here, you sure as fuck don’t have ti up there
Water here is more like 50-52 degrees. Get a storage tank so the water can rise to “room” temp before it hits the HWT. When I had well water with a storage tank the cold tap water was more like 65 degrees. I actually thought of putting a tank (or large coil of tubing) above my garage, in the summer it is about 100 degrees up there. lol I would need no propane in the summer.
A large storage tank then basically becomes an air conditioner that your heating system will fight against. You’re sticking a 50 degree object in your house and “letting it warm up”. Guess where it’s drawing it’s heat from?
Oh you want free heat? Can’t be done, oh yeah unless you do solar like my post also suggested.
Having a storage tank would give you a much larger supply which I thought was what you were after but what ever, I won’t waste your time.
I did plumb the bathroom with seperate valved lines isolating it, however it might be tough to splice into that line and run over to the mechanical room.
Bosch should stick to spark plugs and o2 sensors imo…
using my 50 gal in line with a tankless would be accomplishing the same thing. Anything larger than a 50gal sitting around in the mech. room will take up valuable storage space…all this while keeping in mind that it’s a rental.
the hot line is spliced right in the mech room only a few feet from the tank (the valves however are above the drop ceiling in the hallway, about 8ft away)…i wouldn’t see it being a very difficult run.
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i was laughing because i pictured this huge copper brewery style tank sittng in a room full of 45°F water. but that was only in my head, nobody else shared the experience. We basically have the same thought though, except it would be my existing tank.
Yeah, I was just pointing out how dumb it is basically build a giant air to water hot water tank, especially when the air you’re using is inside your home. If that puts a little sand in his vag my only comment is toughen up champ.
Just a Follow up. I am getting 2 tankless water heaters in series with a control module that turns the 2nd unit on if the single unit cannot keep up.
Going with two of these:
2- Rinnai R75LSe Nat Gas Tankless Water Heater, 7.5 GPM R75LSENG
apparently in order to function propely together, the 2 units need to be identical models. I was originally thinking about going with a larger unit (11Gpm+) and a smaller unit (5Gpm)…but this is apparently my best option.
that’s awesome. I love that more intricate and efficient control systems are coming out for home utility applications. We put in a likely similar controller for our zone dampered HVAC setup. Pretty dope. Definitely post a part # for that. My dad’s installing a tankless hot water heater at his house soon. Maybe I can convince him to double up on it, I think it would be worth it.
Are the utilities far from the outside walls? Is it up-to code if you T in the vents you think?
yes, unfortunately the utilities are far from the outside walls… the existing water tank Tees into the central air vent…but these tankless heaters can’t vent into that flue, they need their own seperate exhaust. I’m trying to research…“why”…but otherwise that would be the MUCH easier solution.
