The Backwards Honda Swap

Some background:
I’ll get some pics when we aren’t working on it at night. My buddy’s car. While he was looking for a civic a while back, he found a rough-but-rust-free 96 integra GS sedan. High mileage, semi tired B18B, automatic transmission, but very clean interior. Needed a front bumper, a fender, and had a dent in the driver’s front door that had been poorly filled. Car was purchased for $400, he replaced the tie rods, drove it around a little bit while working on it until he hurt his back.

Scored a fender, door, and some other shit off someone on nisky lot.

Because high mileage auto trans honda powertrains are somewhat questionable, as well as boring, that brings us to the stupid part of this project. Because you apparently can’t get B-series shit for any sane amount of money, and the fact he has a nice collection of D-series parts kicking around from his last few cars (an engine or two, manual trans, linkages, axles, mounts, etc), we’re going to drop a D-series into the car with manual trans, and its going to cost significantly less than doing ANYTHING with the B-series.

It will probably end up faster than the auto B-series was, for what its worth.

Last night we got most of the harness unhooked, and we got the fluids drained out of it. Next time its dropping the axles out of it, pulling hoses, and possibly yanking the motor.

Fortunately integra and civic engine bays are basically the same (based on the fact that you only need to swap the T-bracket mount when going from D>>B. We’re just doing the opposite.

TL;DR, D15 powered, manual swapped integra, for almost free. Haters gonna hate.

what are you smoking?

We looked for LS trannies for a while. Weren’t able to find many that were less than $300. Combine that with the fact that the B18 in the car could really use a refresh (its not fucked, its just pretty tired with your typical old honda mediocre compression and slight oil burning) and the sub-100k D-series motor and trans that were sitting in the corner of the garage, and most of the parts for the swap are already there.

Integras did come with D-series in them from the factory in other markets. It will absolutely move the car without any problems.

Once this is up and running and he’s been driving it to work for a while (read: has money again), will probably do a vitara build and drop it in.

Pics of ass backwards swap?!?!

Currently it still has the B18B in it, so it looks like any other haggard integra with a bunch of electrical connectors disconnected under the hood.

Will look something like this when complete:

Plus side, we’re probably pulling over 100lbs off the nose of the car. B18B+automatic weights around 425lbs (395lbs with manual). A D15 with a manual weighs about 310lbs. http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/1306_honda_engine_drivetrain_weights/

For anyone wondering, a 96 integra GS 4 door weighs 2750-2800ish lbs with an automatic. The heaviest civic EX sedan from the same year weighed almost 2600lbs.

So weight won’t be too bad. Especially since we’ve pulled the AC off and switched to a half rad.

i like that your doing this swap into the integra. something a lil diffrent then the usual dohc what are u doing with the old b18 motor ?

i have a spare manual 6 spd and a rear diff from a wagon. awd would be cool. have a vicious coupler too.

i think in japan teg’s came in a d series awd model

cool build too. i always wanted to swap a integra 4dr with a eco box engine. the older 91 d series gets great mpg esp if you retune it on a leaner map.

Yeah most integras actually came with ZC’s in them if you look at the global market. I want to screw around with RT4WD stuff, but not in this car. Its enough of a bastard as-is.

The car. Rough, but the quarters are in really good shape for a 90’s honda:

Under hood, typical haggard stock DC integra:

Gangster lean half-rad installation:

Also fun: The engine going into it is OBD1, and we’re running it off an OBD2 Y7 ecu. Wiring really isn’t too difficult.

Hit a snag. Apparently whoever torqued the axle nuts previously used some kind of hilariously over powered impact gun, because they resisted: medium-power husky impact gun (no effect), craftsman 1/2in breaker bar with 3 feet worth of cheater pipe (broken), Snapon 18V cordless impact (no effect), giant snapon ratcheting breaker bar that’s normally used for removing bolts on semis (no effect), with lots of PB blaster and heat between.

So we’re pulling the uprights off the car and dragging the driveaxles out with them. Removing axle nuts with a die grinder and a chisel on the workbench.

Otherwise we would have had the engine out this afternoon.

The nut has to be turned counter clockwise… LOL:rofl:lol:haha

We’re not retarded. Both of us have removed axle nuts before. I can have the uprights off my accord in under half an hour.

These things are just stupidly torqued on 32mm nuts.

Even tried the trick of “set impact to tighten, bump them a few times, set back to loosen and blast away” to try to break them free. 220lbs bouncing on a 4 foot breaker bar did nothing.