Pro systems? People swear by these but I swear I should have never bought one because I had to re jet and tune it from how It was set up to bolt on and to faster from them. Patrick was a great guy but 700+ for a carb and it made me a second slower on the motor and run like shit. I was not happy.
Next time I’ll def put a 400 dollar reg Holley from summit.
My best advice is to put a wideband on it the same time your doing the fuel system. I’m not a carb expert by any means but slow single changes at a time is how I dialed mine in how many years ago. Never had to change a jet, air bleed, squirter or air mixture since.
Weird. My SV1 is the shit and seems to be right on. I don’t know if it could do better, but it made 85HP over what my goal was and has great throttle response. So I’m not going to touch a thing. lol
I wanted the sv1 myself, he told me my car was too heavy for it. he said I could only run a 1200cfm dominator or an hp1000. with a difference of + 15hp to the dominator from the 4150, and another + 15hp to the sv1 from the domi IF i was able to run it. But said it wouldn’t run well on the street for me. your monte cant be light, but my car just hit the scale at 3820lbs last week. talk about a buzz kill. I was 3620 with my old motor and 10 bolt. and probably 3300 when I had a sbc and 4 speed no cage etc. just keeps getting heavier. the prosystems has not been spot on at all. gave me shit since day 1. my old proform 950 was a mutha fuckin boss the day I put it on and cost half the money. the needle and seat in the back was defective the day i got it. I’m pretty positive my jetting will need change. and he runs the same jets in a lot of the carbs he sends out. on another board im on all the bbc guys post their prosystem sheet the jets they come with are all the same. His communication is excellent so that helps. I tried a few other builders and could barely get a response from them. ive heard some guys go faster with his carbs, and some go slower. I really wanted a braswell. I wont think twice about buying another carb if im not happy with this one. But I haven’t given it a chance yet so too soon to give up on it. Blown&Stroked and I are guna hook up his LM1 and see what she does. I need to put a vacuum port on the intake too.
My car is around 3400 with me in it I believe. Never been on a scale, just assuming. I told him my car was 3,300lbs. I don’t know how the carb does going down the track under load yet, I’ve just played in the driveway. My rear float was stuck down when I first got it. Took it apart, took the needle out, got the float free, put it back in. Been fine since.
Is horsepower, horsepower? No matter if it’s in your 8 year old’s tricycle or a freight train? I’m not too familiar with all that…I thought it was just built to work as efficient as possible with a particular motor.
well according to Patrick james my car was too heavy for an sv1 at 3600 lbs (what I told him it last weighed) I knew it was going to get heavier when I switched to a dart block and told him that as well. he said with its 1 to 1 linkage it wouldn’t run right with that carb on the street. He also told me id need a 5000+ converter. I don’t know what you have but your car seems snappy with it already so it looks like your good to go. its such a cool concept for a carb I really wanted to get my hands on one. Choda, I have no idea what it will make on the juice but I can probably spray 400-500 or so on the motor with the ring gap I have. cam, carb, converter everything is ready for big hits of juice and was designed for that purpose. Its the only reason I went to a dart block for the extra head bolts since the head gaskets were blowing out of my 489. I could have modified the 489 block but the dart is just so much stronger all around. The converter feels tighter than I thought it was going to be. So it might not be perfect on motor but it should work really well on spray and allow me to spray alot. I don’t think I’ll spray it this year though. if I do itll only be a little 100 shot just to fuck around with. The intake is probably getting sent over to induction solutions this winter for a 2 stage fogger and a plate kit on top. Just so I can pick and choose what shots I wana run without having to change anything. I doubt id run past 2 stages at once ever. but plate kits hit hard and could be a fun small stage to run with and then go to 2 foggers if I wana run some big boy shots. for now I still have to get this pos to run right on motor alone so that’s my goal right now. new pump showed up today. its pretty beast.
3820? How is that possible? Not being a dick here, just wondering. That thing was around 3300 bone stock, with steel wheels, all sort of emissions crap, exhaust manifolds, etc, etc. Just because it now has a big-block doesn’t mean you added 500lbs. You’ve got light drag wheels, no emissions crap, drag seats, fiberglass hood, etc. Yeah I know it has a cage (75lbs) and the rear is heavier, but those cars were light to begin with, and now it’s borderline Chevelle weight?
I know man your telling me. It was 3300 range when I got it. I weighed it with the 489 and th400 one year. I weighed it almost every time I did something new. I added about 50 lbs when I put the cage in and got a fiberglass hood. so that wasn’t bad. but I just weighed it last Friday and it was 3820. I use the same scale every time. This is with ME in the car. I should have specified that I guess. But the car doesn’t drive itself so im still 3800lbs going down the track. The 9 inch added some weight but I got the fab 9 cause it was lighter. axles are still huge though. the new driveshaft was a lot heavier than my old one, added a driveshaft loop (not that much weight) and the dart block was the main change. I don’t know what the difference in weight between a stock bigblock and a dart big M is, but it could be 100-150lbs from what it looks like.
Well, I wouldn’t trust those truck scales on Walden, lol. Those truck scales are used for trailers/trucks weighing 50,000lbs+. It’s like trying to weigh a pencil on a bathroom spring scale when you step on it with a car. It could weigh 3820, and then you’ll drive off of it and back on, and it could be 100lbs different. Take it to Empire and use the scales at the end of the track, or better yet, see who has a set of digital scales. A dart block is about 75-100 more than a chevy big block depending on how much you have it bored to. A bigger bore engine can weigh 20-30lbs less than a smaller bored engine. Cylinders weigh a lot.
