94Gt5.0
February 7, 2012, 2:54pm
1400
The Tikka lites can be a trick. You will have to send the barrel out and have it properly threaded to accept the brake you’re going to use. Barrel is hammer forged and must be turned slowly.
Second you should either use the Sako brake, or the OPS brake. TPI will depend on the diameter of the thread at the end of the machining, which is determined by the overall diameter of the muzzle. This will typically be 5/8-24
Because the rifle is bolt action, you do not have to permanently affix the brake to the muzzle(IE pin and weld) but it still will need to me machined and indicated properly, and then should be affixed with a high temp threadlocker to avoid loosening.
You planning to use this rifle for hunting? If that’s the case you may want to consider trying just the limb saver first. Adding a brake to this rifle is going to make it VERY VERY loud in your direction. It will help with muzzle rise but doesn’t actually add to accuracy. It will make acquiring the target easier, but if you’re popping off more than one round at a deer maybe you should reconsider your targeting skills :lol
If you get the barrel threaded and buy a brake I can indicate and install the brake for you if you still want to go down this route. Limb savers are ~$35 at Zacks on Rt9(get off at exit 10, head north on 9, ~1.5 miles up on left, ask to Pete)
The rifle will not be used for hunting, so not overly concerned with the insane loudness that will come with it lol. As for getting the barrel threaded, who would you trust to do it correctly? I’ve also heard many gunsmiths want to cut the barrel down some to install the brake, any pros/cons with that? Definitely going the limbsaver route first, but have a feeling I’ll also end up doing a break as well. Thanks for the help guys!