To Lexan, or not to Lexan.

Need a few opinions on what I should do with my little problem here. I have recently purchased a “Carbon Creations” CF hatch for my S13. I bought it off a friend for $300, brand spankin’ new. I am trying to decide whether to use Lexan, or retain the OEM glass. I know the GLASS is what makes the hatch heavy as shit, and not the metal itself. So it’d seem silly to run a CF hatch, with glass in it. Just seems stupid. I’m looking to do a lot of autocross, and see a lot of track time in the car, so I do care about weight. The car has the bare minimum in it already, since weight is crucial for autocrossing. I am leaning towards Lexan. The ONLY thing that is dettering me from it, is that it scratches/clouds VERY easily, apparently. I don’t care if it looks wavy or anything like that. I would just like to somehow keep the stock “tint” around the frame of the window. Also, for installation, I’m thinking of doing it like this…

  1. Purchase Polycarbon sheet
  2. Cut to size
  3. Place on CF hatch, and prop up from underside to give it a slight “curve” to prevent it from sagging badly.
  4. Drill out holes for aluminum rivets every one inch all the way around
  5. Lift up Lexan and put down some window caulking
  6. Rivet it all in, done?

Any opinions/ideas would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

spraying it black where the stock one is is easy,
just remove protective coating where you want to be black, scuff with a scotch brite, spray paint.

also rivets every inch seems to be overkill.

That’s a sweet idea! Yeah, I could leave the protectant layer on, and just cut around carefully with a razor, peel off, scuff up, and paint. I’m also thinking of using bolts/nuts instead of rivets. I would like to try and replace the Lexan one day when it is too fogged up. Not sure if the caulking will peel off the CF easily though :S I wonder if there’s anything to prevent the Polycarbonate from fogging/scratching. I went to 3M today, and asked if they had a “clear” protective layer to put on top, and they said no :frowning: I know they sell sprays to bring back the clearness, but not sure if they even work… Any ideas are appreciated!

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Also! What kind of sealer would be the best to use?

you should ask a mechanic

pretty sure functioning rear window defrost is part of a safety inspection (if originally equipped), should you ever require one…

just a thought…

if you’re concerned about rivets being permanent, aluminum rivets can be drilled out very easily. I have removed my windshield in my oval track car many times.

as for the defrost thing. I’ve never seen someone check rear defrost in a safety. take it elsewhere if a shop has an issue with it

you can put the cut sheet on top of your glass and heat with heat gun so the sheet takes shape of glass. or find someone with furnace willing to do it. (note: you must heat sheet first then put in on top of glass so the sheet temp drop rapidly due to colder glass, solidifying the sheet in the shape of ur glass)
unless you are doing it for a street car, most series mandate a support in muddle of the sheet (mostly just front window) so when you hit the tire wall you dont eat tire.

Ok, thanks for all the input guys!

What kind of sealant could I use? I need something that will peel off of the carbon fibre easily, without damaging it.

Go to your nearest CarQuest or where you can buy some butyl seal buddy, its meant for cars so its waterproof and u seal off your glass/lights/spoiler. I did that with my koukis and type x spoiler.

As for bolts. I would use a round head bolt so it looks nicer from the outside like these

google pichttp://upload.ecvv.com/upload/Product/20112/China_Round_Head_Bolt_LGA006201121014324410.JPG

Now, this should peel off easily if I ever need to replace, right?

yea it comes off with a little heat and goo off

Found the Nissan part number for their Butyl tape! I believe it’s
B6553-89915
Gonna give that a go!