type-s knockoff BOV

i cannot get this thing set up properly. no matter how tight or loose the adjuster screw is i get compressor surge and no blow off. however, if i loosen the adjuster screw too much the car stalls under decel, tighten it back up and the car is fine. shouldnt that mean the bov is leaking at idle when the screw is loosened? but why then do i still get surge? the only thing i have left to try is to take it apart, remove one of the springs and use rtv around the top. a few people have said this is a waste of time though. anyone have any ideas?

you can always try just taking it a part and cleaning it out…

the piston or what not may be stuck so isnt moving hence why its not blowing off ?

I dont really know what to say

Where do you have the vaccum source to it from ? “top right manifold?”

You can try this;
Tighten your bov to that point where it wont open.
You see the Type-S bov has 2 nipples, you probably have only the bigger one hooked up, right? Ususally they say dont hook up the other one.
But, the other one is used to make the bov open faster under high boost, pretty much it helps push the bov open.
You should hook up a boost-only line to the smaller nipple. NO vacuum should be coming from this line. You can feed it off somewhere on your intercooelr piping, or possibly on the manifold somewhere, just make sure its a boost-only source. (I dont know what it would do if u hooked upto a boost/vac source, but anything i’ve read says only hook upto boost)

This might give your bov the extra pull/push to get it open.

Type-s bov should work fine without hooking up the other nipple tho, so maybe somethings up with it. I have heard of other ppl having issues with knockoff type-s from other forums too.

I’ve also heard of people modifying the springs inside, i dont know how and I dont know why, check freshalloy, zilvia or nico.

I have a used genuine type-s for sale if you cant figure this one out and want it.

yes im using the top right for the bov. what is the one on the bottom boost or vac? i dont really have anywhere i could use to hook up the second port on the bov.

dont you have a nipple on the hot/cold pipe for your wastegate signal ?

if so you could T into that for a boost signal to the BOV

dont you have a nipple on the hot/cold pipe for your wastegate signal ?

if so you could T into that for a boost signal to the BOV[/quote]

no i dont. currently my bov line is t’d to the wg. could that be part of the problem?

I said a few times… BOOST ONLY.
top big one is for BOOST + VAC.

try tee’ing it off something else, like your boost gauge, might work?

Alex,

check your vaccuum, if you are not getting near 20 and you switch BOV and find that you are getting better vaccuum with a different one that should confirm if it is leaking or not.

well i took it apart and removed the smaller spring. nothing has changed so im starting to think maybe thats just how mine sounds. anyone who has heard compressor surge before wanna go for a ride with me? i also just tried recirculating it to get rid of the stalling on decel and its slightly better but the idle still dips quite a bit. also i should mention the car bucks when trying to gently apply the throttle.

I said a few times… BOOST ONLY.
top big one is for BOOST + VAC.

try tee’ing it off something else, like your boost gauge, might work?[/quote]

i know what you said. i was asking what type of source the line under the tb is. the one that goes to canister.

im getting about 18-19 vac at idle

let it sit @ idle… put your hand infront of the opening for the bov… get someone to floor it right up to 7000rpm and let off

you should feel it “blow off” if you dont, then its not opening

and 18-20in/hg would be a normal vaccum reading I think.

I get 20in/hg

vac is in in/hg not psi

yep 20 should be normal vac

i dont know about sr, but under the ca throttlebody there is a boost-only source.

yeah if you are gettign 18 - 19 vac then the BOV likely is not leaking.

Vaccum Only Im pretty sure… “which is why you either run it to the Canister or plug it off”

When I first did my SR swap I had my Wastegate T’d into my BOV like you with the signal coming from the Top Right “Fat” manifold line or what not…

Not to long after thou I welded a Nipple onto the Hot Pipe for my Wastegate Signal and the spool time got a bit better (few hundred rpm atleast)

So I would recommend getting a Nipple put on either the Hot or Cold pipe “If its the Hot Pipe you want it as close to the turbo as possible… and if its on the Cold Pipe you want it as close to the TB as possible (i think)” and I would run it to your Wastegate then T off it for your BOV… And if it still doesnt “Blow Off” then it must not be working/broken perhaps ?