The only bad thing about V-mounts (however its a big con) in my opinion is that if you are dumping all the air from the rad under the car… well you’re doing just that dumping a lot of air under the car.
If you could run ducts on the other side of the rad to exit out the fenders that would be perfect, response cooling and aerodynamics
The torque stay was designed so that it could be adapted at both ends to hopefully accomodate ANY setup with just a tweak at either end. With a STB all that needs to be done is to have a down leg attached to an exsisting mount so that it runs down the side of the tower and bolts into place like this one does.
As for V mount, it’s not really a Japanese thing, they may have just modified it and adapted from 80’s Spec A racing or early JGTC, for popular use, I know it was used in formula1 racing back in the 80’s turbo days and it was probably used back in the 60’s on the lemans cars if not as an IC/RAD setup then as an oilcooler/rad setup. I don’t really know it’s roots come from but it was a great idea. If you have the space it’s a good use of it
The air going through the rad is the same regardless of how it’s angled, it’s still then same surface area for both entrance and rad face… the air on an OEM or V mount still has to go the same route, under the car so nothing has changed except where the air may exit in this case it 'may ’ have moved it forward by a foot. But the underside of your car is so broken up that it’s not going to matter, If you have a full under tray that worked then you’d probably have to modify your engine bay exit points to accomodate the changes right now your not going to see a difference with the aero package or at the driving level the car is capable of.
Nice Work. Respect due.
Are you not running the idle air control valve?? Or is that what that long tube running across the motor is?? Why would you put the tube on the wrong side of the intercooler??
And is there enough room left to run power steering??
no, he’s not running powersteering.
with ICV it’s not important where the air comes from, hot or cold it’s idle if your getting detonation from hot air at idle then you’ve got bigger problems to worry about… it was put where it was given the mateirals supplied at the time the materials had been upgraded since the original fab work but it didn’t matter, however with the new materials it could have gone on the cold side side of the cooler and not made much of a difference at all.
Since the car has no PS it’s not in the way, with PS then you have two options, drop the PS pump down below the IC pipe or simply jog it out around the PS pump. not a big deal.
I only mean wrong side as in, 5 inches of tube VS 2 feet.
Is there an electric fan behind the rad??
yeah their is a fan mounted up… forget the product actually used ( dereks fan not mine ) but it’s a pefect fit. for that particular rad.
yeah the long hose lenght is not my first chioce my preference would have been to use the cold side and do a 90 off of that but at the time it was designed that made the most sense material wise.
i pushed it for the first time today
it chirps 4th gear. and spins a lot though third
granted i do have winter tires, but still
and i was able to stay nose to nose with brand spankin new vette from a 2nd gear roll
i cant wait for an exhaust, tires and more boost
1000km and that Engine Brace is going to snap…
Nah, it being mounted in the middle of that plate against the strut tower should allow enough flex that it won’t snap the welds or anything. But we shall see. I say if he’s on urethane mounts he’s fine.
i have one of these,
no point in getting the project silvia ones because they dont fit most SR’s anyways, i know with my hotpipe i cant fit the PS kit on so brackets have to be made anyways.
i think i can give these suckers away for $75 cdn.
Band-Aid brand ???
I believe the project silvia ones you just need to flip the mounting bracket on the shock tower upside down, and it will clear the hotpipe.
given the angle of the box tube and the fact that the wall thickness is no more then .045"-.030", their is enough flex in that tube to deduce ANY fatigue that could poosibly occour, The materials, mounting points and build up were all discussed with a mechanical Eng. prior to actual building as well. But the product was built to allow for a change down the road if the customer feels it’s TOO stiff for thier driving needs.If the head has problems with a torque of ~ 200ft/lbs then the engine has got problems from a basic design point as well.
~ 800km to go anyway by your prediction… 
Actually, fatigue is promoted by flex, since it is the weakening of metal grains due to repeated stress (cyclic loading). When the motor vibrates, it’s cycling that steel member through compression and tension.
I’m not trying to knock you on the design; it’s just not ideal.
BTW, deduce means to come up with a conclusion. 
The speed at which the torque stay will fatigue given the LOW torque loads on it is measured in years.
Also I meant to say ’ reduce ’ not ‘deduce’
It’s not waether it was ideal or not… given XXX dollars it would be MUCH different but it’s the buyer and the parameters HE’s got to work within that set the stage not me… I’ve said this before, in this thread. People seem to think that everything should be perfect, regardless of any other factors.
So Titan, it’s not Ideal… feel free to remake it in an ‘ideal way’ for under $40 including materials.
I didn’t read there was a sever budget involved. You’re right, that does change some aspects.
However, I will take you up on that $40 challenge once I finish exams.
Once again, not trying to be an ass about it.
excellent, i’ll give you the parameters I had to work to when your ready 