thanx zerodaze your my hero
what about doing what a lot of guys do and going with 4 seperate throttle bodies instead of a manifold. If ur looking to make some serious power this might be a great route plus prolly a little bit easier
edit: n/m, that prolly wont work on a turbo car, oops, should think before i speak
^ yeah i was going to say that wont work on a turbo car. there is an adapter on ebay to do it though, its $170 and its a cast peice with the runners and bolts up to the head, then you just have to buy the individual TB’s…i was actually thinking abou tpicking that peice up and just building the plenum
yeah wat about a simpler manifold split the turbo feed into 4 different runners that go into seperate throttle bodies, would be kinda crazy but if ur fabing it up u might as well do sumn crazy…idunno if it would actually work but it was a quick thought
cut > cast when it come to welding i do beleive … especialy because u never know what kind of sit they cast it with
it will work fine, and i know a certain single cam turbo honda that will be using itbs
side note: skylines come from the factory with itbs
yeah i know my 300zx has two throttle bodies, one on each side of the motor, kinda same idea just with 4. i wanna see him do this
if you think about it, ITB’s would mean that theres less air that goes to vacuum during shifts … hmmmmm
^^^explanation? dont quite understand
your twin tbs is no wheres close to the same as an itb set up.
in his/my setup your pleanum is before the throttle body/ies. the tricky part with this is tuning part throttle and vacuum. the vac will be much weaker, and not nearly as accurate (you lose a lot of resolution in vac).
edit:
there is only a handful of inches of runner after the tb with itbs. with a bov located near the turbo, you should be able to keep more pressure inside the pleanum and charge pipe. 
im not familiar with the vaccums at all, wanna explain it?
if you let off the throttle during shifts the TB closes and the intake goes into vacuum, when you get back on the gas the turbo has to refill the intake
with itb’s, the plenum will still have some pressure in it because the turbo is still spinning and pushing air
when i had the bov hooked into the wastegate line on the boosted eclipse i could watch the boost spike to 11 during shifts and then slowly drop down if the throttle was left closed
ok i understand now, so is there any way to prevent it?
edit: n/m read zerodaze’s previous post. so its possible but takes more planning on the whole system and some good tuning?
actualy, its GOOD that the plenum would still have boost, its not something that you would realy wanna prevent
on any car the “fastest” way to run is to keep plenty of pressure in the pipes during shifts, that way
think of it this way if a car makes 200 peak hp n/a and makes 300 @ 9 psi , during a shift your dropping to only 200 hp, and even tho it might only take a second to build full pressure again, thats a second that you only have 2/3 of full power
i think many people in this thread are discussion various options the operate under some key assumptions that i may or may not agree with.
Assumptions:
-
ported = more horsepower.
my opinion? NO, not necessarily. anytime you modify a stock head, intake manifold, throttle body by porting it simply because you assume that wider passages/plenums equates to more power you are deluding yourself. there is much more that goes into it that just what is “wider” will be better. you have to factor in air turbulence, which is extremely difficult to predict unless you are an engineer. i would recommend not porting anything unless you are experienced or an engineer or both. -
“anything” will be better than stock
my opinion? NO. not always. while stock units are engineered for optimal emissions efficiency and gas mileage combined with power, they are still ENGINEERED. that is the key word here. they arent just slapped together, they are calculated and experimented with until the right balance is found. that certainly isnt to say that more POWER efficient units cant be built, because they definitely can. However, to say that building an intake manifold out of sheet metal by yourself with wider runners and a more direct shot to the head will necessitate power gains is foolish.
while it is a good thought and is certainly ambitious, i would recommend steering clear of this one. you will probably end up creating something that looks hacked, took up a TON of time to build, and loses you power anyways… pessimistic, yes, but realistic.
http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/race-parts-focus.shtml
no hp info tho
most likely rideiculous expensive though…now Zerodaze REALLY has me wanting to get better at tunning and build a ITB setup…i would need ALOT of guidance and help…i have my own software if you would like to help Zerodaze 
EDIT: $800 for the manifold hotrod posted :jawdrop: :eek: :rant:
yup, and thats INCLUDING the accufac TB on it … which is prolly like 300 itself
I am glad SOMEONE has been listening
yea, so you’re telling me that of the 5 manifolds honda used on the d series swapping one to another with a better performance oriented ones doesn’t help? (the answer is yes, it would help… especially when the car is now seeing positive manifold pressure)
jnj your a fool to think that the stock focus manifold design has anything to do with performance. it was designed as an ecno car. look that that other manifold posted. i bet its pretty fucking similar to the shit i have said in this thread.
not all engines are designed from the factory like an ls1, or a b18c.
if you are not going to post something that is useful to this kid don’t post again.
(that is to all posters) i will start handing out tickets for the train to bansville.