can you guys give me a ballpark number to fab a set of top mount turbo mani’s for a ford Vulcan 3L v6 in a ranger?
and possibly some IC piping.
I’d put a pic up but i dont have any but will inside of the next week.
Sure can, but I need pics to see how tight the spaces are I am working with for sure.
You want header style manifolds, a crossover pipe and a merge into a turbo flange? just so we are on the same page.
What turbo flange? What about wastegate? What type of flange and what size? Recirculated or dumped wastegate?
lets start there.
What year ranger?
i wanted to do twins(SRS pipe dream). i’ve got about 6" on either side and the front of the motor free. it’s got a engine compartment the size of godzilla’s toilet and a block the size of a milk crate and a half LOL
honestly i dont know much about turbos and i dont wanna go balls out with it. i want it to be relatively reliable, but able to run with civics and eclipses.
it’s got a probe motor. i dont trust anything that was even related to anything in a probe. so idfk if this is even a moderately good idea.
EDIT:1992 2wd, extended cab.
did you do any research on the durability of your motor in a boosted application? you might just want to try and flip your stock manifolds forward facing, get some pipe and connect your turbos with your stock manifolds. do you want to keep ps or ac?
PS yes, but i can deal with 2/30 air
people turbo their (as much as it pains me to say this) probes often, and they seem to hold up decently.
Vulcan 3.0s are a pretty durable motor. I wouldn’t push past 10psi. The Vulcan is a 60* V6 designed for FWD cars like the Taurus and Probe. There should be plenty of room to work with considering the 60* angle. I would start by turning the manifolds upside down and facing forward and see where they leave ya. If the bolt pattern permits. Then build a cross over pipe to the turbo. Or have the Left side mani pass under the engine and back up to a log on the right.
didnt plan on more than 10. like i said, engine bay the size of Godzilla’s toilet.
if you dont want to past 10 psi…just hit it with a 100 shot lol
AMD’sTheBest should chime in then. He had a very well built turbo probe way back.
A single would be way easier and cheaper. Not even talking the fab work… just parts. 2 turbos, 2 wastegates, 2 down pipes, 2 flex sections for the down pipes, Y pipe for the exhaust, 2 into 1 intercooler, or a Y pipe for the charge, twice the AN and stainless braided lines for oil, etc. its a long list.
Price wise I cant put a $ amount on anything yet, I need to see the truck, and really start there to do it right. But this would be helpfull:
Cheapest to most expensive:
-Stock iron manifolds, (if they are symmetrical) swap left to right and face them forward. Stainless crossover pipe to a 2-1 merge, to a turbo flange where ever it physically fits and looks good. Single turbo, simple FMIC and charge pipe setup. wastegate dumped and make a down pipe and exhaust from there. If they arent symmetrical, I can put the crossover pipe under the truck run it forward and up to the turbo, where ever we can put it.
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Aftermarket tubular headers, like JBA, Hedman, etc, and do the above.
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I make headers, and do the above.
Not saying twins cant be done, but its a whole new ball game and a totally different beast. Instead of twins, i would put that $1500+ in the bottom end of the motor instead of another turbo, wastegate, oil lines, etc.
yeah but with turbz the power is always there.
plus i’d need a fill every couple days if i went NAWSS
I cant beat the price of headers you can get aftermarket. There is alot of money in materials alone. and the labor/time to make them would make them a bit more than a set of good aftermarket headers.
First see if the ports and studs are symmetrical side to side. if we can flip the manifolds this is actually a simple build. Get a gasket set from advanced for $10. Mark them with Left Cylinder Head Side, Right Cylinder Head Side, Left manifold side and Right manifold side and play around with them to see if they can be swapped.
Or go outside and unbolt them and try it. 
like i said twins are a pipe dream. i dont think the stock cast iron ones are symmetrical, but i cant check because the truck’s at my dad’s house in PA. Anyways, im not trying to go racing, just have a fun little truck that can suprise a few ricers.
yeah the twins wouldnt help much at all, and hinder you in many respects actually.
A single 60mm would be plenty I would think.
Try to do some research and see if they flip side to side. i will too. If they do, its cake from there out and a shit ton cheaper. If not, like I said, I can route a hot side pipe under/through the crossmember using the stock or aftermarket headers in stock orientation.
What do you want to do for exhaust after the down pipe?
it’s got no exhaust (rusted off, but truck only has 62xxx miles?) past the cats now
cats need to go away and i dont want it to sound like smashed assholes, but i want it to announce it’s presence.
so im thinking a pipe with a dump before the rear axle, but with a resonator or glasspacks or something to quiet it down.
gotcha. Well thats cake then.
Do a remote mount under the floor of the cab where the muffler or cats used to go. It will keep clutter out of the engine bay. Down side is you need a scavenge pump to bring oil back to the engine. I had a 94 3.0 Ranger. Engine was awesome. A T3 should be perfect for this application.
AMDs probe was the 2.2L Mazda Engine (F2T). It was turbo form the factory. The 3.0 went into a different trim level of the probe. Not the GT.
IIRC my Ranger 3.0 5spd did donuts on dry pavement with LSD. One turbocharged would probably blow the tires off from a 20 roll when the boost came on
If you went the stock manifolds, as they are on there, est on materials would be something like (off the top of my head):
$100 in 2.25 or 2.5" SS tube. I would pie cut the bends.
$30 for a turbo flange
$30 for a flex
$40 for some header flanges
$15 for a pair of 02 bungs
$20 for some msc steel to make a turbo support bracket.
$100 or so for some 3" SS for the down pipe
$20 for a turbo hot side vband flange
$15 for the clamp
$60-100 for some aluminum to make the charge pipes from some U bends and straight sections
$40 for some couplers and Tbolt clamps
use the BOV and WG flanges you get from the BOV and WG you buy.
Thats a decent start for materials. Some are def high, liek the flanges and crap. but I may be short on the est $ for the tubing… until I see it I dont know. But thats a rough ball park.
Labor I would say if I have a clean and clear slate to work with and the turbo, IC core, WG and BOV in hand. Something like 5-15 hrs to make the crossover pipe, then fully back purge and tig up, make the support bracket and the down pipe. Then something like 3-10 to get the front bumper off, mount the IC, make the charge pipes, and install it all.
Thats a ROUGH est for labor. I really need to see the car to get a better idea.
So like $510 or so in materials, and $540-1687.50 in labor.
If you wanted me to make headers from scratch, add about $1200+ to that total.
If you are going to do all that work for just 10psi, swap in a better motor :rofl
Get a turbo with internal waste gate and use the BOV or bypass valve from a car that came stock with a turbo: Saab, VW, Mitsubishi, Ford Probe, ect. Also good places to look for intercoolers. These parts will be plenty for ~10psi. Mild steel pipe will cut cost and actual has less chance of cracking under heat and load. Just try to keep it painted or ceramic coated. Hoses and coupler from similar vehicle may help as well.