yep, all very valid ways to save a bunch of cash.
Like Mr. Dirt said, its not what you want its the consumer! SK, what ever you want to do I can make it happen for ya.
And this dude ^ will make it look like cash whether its fabbed from unobtainium or scrap steel!
I once polished a turd.
No joke
sorry i couldnt get back to you goons earlier my home internet was fucked up.
Johawk, thanks for reminding me, i need to get an LSD rear end for mine.
one wheel peels FTMFL
Whats your budget ? I haven’t seen that question asked
27 cents
ballin on a budget lol
i was just wondering how much it would’ve run me if i went balls out with it
There is balls out or there is a more affordable way. The engine wont take 25psi so a full twin turbo or bid single with a tube header set up is probably very overkill anyway.
Those motors are good in stock form , that’s about it man . The intake is to small port wise to do anything with etc the internals are weak . Your Prolly better off doing a supercharged setup off of a Thunderbird super coupe on it .
wouldnt an STS tailpipe turbo setup work better on this truck than a manifold setup?
Not really , I’m thinking nitrous is a better rt for this one
damn things probably got 150k+ and is most likely gonna blow up anyway so might as well go with something cheaper like NOS, blow the v6 up and then swap in a 302.
My friend had a '93 Tempo with a 3.0 and 5 speed and that car was surprisingly fast and would roast the tires into 3rd gear. Too bad he drove it thru a pole though.
pjb it’s actually got 62,385 kmi
last owner before my dad was 78 and stored it in his basement for winter.
truck hasnt been on the road since 6 years ago when my old man threw a log through the back window while loading firewood
old Fords have odometers that reset to 0 after 99,999. My Mustang did it while I owned it and my Ranger supposedly had 63k when I bought it but Im sure it shouldve had a 1 or 2 in front of it.
i know that the odo’s roll back, this is wayy to clean underneath and inside to have 100k.
a simple sheet metal intake would help out a ton too if thats a big restriction.
Build a single turbo kit. run it at 8psi and see how long it lasts. then crank it up a bit. when it pops, get another junkyard 3.0L and put $1500 into pistons, rods and a refresh and crank the boost.
The intake will make it RPM limited I imagine. 8psi will be plenty and make some more torque for sure. I would start even lower like 5psi to make sure the fuel system and tuning is gonna work out before turning the knob a few clicks. If you use a turbo from another vehicle the WG is probably set at 5-8psi anyway.
I like the STS idea (remote mount turbo) but if you look at the truck kits they usually put them under the cab or bed where the muffler would go. It you could get a small T3 or T3-T4 to fit where a cat usually goes right at the Y pipe that would be beneficial. Plenty of heat wrap on the Y pipe would also help. Like I said before. The big downfall of the remote turbz is charge pipe (would be much easier on a truck tho) and the scavenge pump cause I doubt you can get the turbo higher than the oil pan.
Those old 3.0s are tough motors, nothing like the old cast glass internal GM 2.8. I hope it doesnt have 150+k. That will give it the little extra clearance it needs for forced induction.
There is alot of room under the hood when a bunch of the junk is removed. Even if we left the stock manifolds where they are, the Y pipe can come off them, go right back up into the engine compartment and put the turbo up by the fender well.
Intank 255, injectors and a SCT flash or something to get control over it should work. Get a cheap journal bearing turbo, and give it hell.
I would love to see this happen. I always wanted to turbo or supercharge my 3.0 Ranger.