:tup:
Dont lie…it was a weight reduction benefit.
No2 bottle placement is critical!
Let’s start with some guest appearances…
The new owner of my old car is enjoying it - he is finishing up the little things that I never got around to - electric cutouts, tint, etc. Weird seeing it with different plates on it
IMG_1388 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
IMG_1387 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
@Wahoo stopped over last weekend for some work on his goat
IMG_1378 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
IMG_1377 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Back to your regularly scheduled crap…just been driving this thing to work on every nice day we get
image by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Couple small updates
Needed to get the car inspected and it was throwing a bunch of codes after the longtube install, so shut off those codes via HPTuners and also raised the rev limit to 6500 (from 6200) in anticipation of the last couple of bolt-ons I’m going to do. Picked up new LS6 OEM valve springs, 16 new seals, and an LS6 intake manifold (thanks @LZ1 ). When it’s all apart I will finish deleting the AIR system, should clean up the engine bay a bit.
I am not a fan of mimicking trim packages that the car didn’t come with (aka putting red fuel rail covers from a Z06 on this car) but I wanted something different in the engine bay, so the LS6 intake will be getting paint. Starting off with deep clean, masking off the usual parts, and then primer. Final color will be a wrinkle red. Might do the air bridge too if I like how it turns out.
Ready for paint:
_DSC4907 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Primer:
_DSC4908 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4909 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4910 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Brian L asked me if I was interested in a paint correction - he wanted to show my car in his booth at http://www.buffalomotorama.com/ . I am not a big “show” person but this is a pretty cool opportunity. I will snap some pics this weekend when I go to the show. He worked wonders on the BMW so I’m sure the Vette will turn out great as well.
Check out his site, shameless plug.
IMG_1394 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
IMG_1384 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Also started working on some cutouts. Picked up a drill press, don’t know how I went without one all these years. Poor hole saw got its brains beat out by the stainless but the end result is nice.
image by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
I am going to try something different on the cutouts. I ran an electric QTP some years ago and wasn’t happy with the operation, reliability, etc. The motor crapped out on me and the vendor told me I had to buy a new one as they didn’t sell parts. So I picked up some vacuum actuated ching chong 3" units off the chinese ebay wannabe site to try to put together my own “NPP” option. There is another Corvette guy using these for muffler modifications with success so I have high hopes. I haven’t yet figured out how I want to control them, but am thinking about using some old EGR vacuum solenoids to control the valves on demand. We’ll see.
cool, any pictures of the vacuum actuated cutouts youre going to fab up?
They make them in 2.5", 3", vacuum OR boost actuated, and normally closed or normally open.
They should be here Monday, way quicker than I thought
I’m curious to hear how those ebay ones work.
I bought some V-bands as well so I can remove them for service, gonna tack it all together and have someone else TIG it together. Anyone feel like gluing it together for me?
My QTP just didn’t stand up to the year round elements, the motor crapped out after about 6 months. Vendor told me I couldn’t replace any parts, so it’s been sitting in the basement ever since.
For the new cutouts, I do plan on using a check valve for sure. I purchased valves that are normally closed. The NPP cutouts on all the newfangled GM stuff are normally open, and as soon as a vacuum is applied, they slam shut. This means they’re open on cold start, and when vacuum builds a few seconds later, they shut. I did not want this situation since I leave for work early in the morning and wanted to maintain some sanity for my neighbors. I could have gotten around this by using a check valve and a vacuum canister but that’s added complexity, and I have no idea if the vacuum canister would hold a charge for sitting a week at a time (which is a reality if we have a couple days of nasty weather). The last item that turned me off from the normally open was that in the event of any vacuum fitting/line failure the valves would fail open, and I’d have to drive around with the car stupidly loud until I got it fixed. I would much rather they fail in the normally closed position.
Check valve:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C982H2/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1VE9AW69OSF89
Vacuum can (if needed)
http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-47076-Vacuum-Tank/dp/B000COB8FA/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1458764593&sr=1-2&keywords=vacuum+canister+automotive
The only thing that I would have liked to have using the normally open system would be the feature of the engine vacuum on idle and light driving conditions to keep the valve shut, and then valves opening up when you hammer on it, removing vacuum. It makes for a nice “automatic” mode but again I wanted the failsafe to be in the closed position.
The red paint showed up so it was time to let the inner ricer out. had a couple local Flying Bison craft brews to pre-dull the brain for the paint fumes and went to town. I miss doing these small quick jobs, they are great fun.
This stuff is awesome. Used about 2/3 of 1 can to do the whole manifold. I was on the fence about the finish based on the Amazon reviews but bought 2 cans just in case it turned out nice. About 3 solid heavy coats on it and it turned out great. Unlike the primer this stuff ran you wouldn’t believe, but as long as you kept a good distance with the can it went on great. I used this stuff in a black color on a power steering pulley when I built the original 6.0 for my BMW in 2012 but the finish was way too coarse. This one turned out much finer
so throwing on some coats, wet
_DSC4911 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4912 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4913 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Dried for 20 mins, let her sit under the unit heater for a while getting toasty, another couple coats, then let it cure fully and crinkle. It has the fine “Ferrari-red-crinkle” finish that I was going for. Thought it might come out light based on how it looked when it was wet but it dried darker and is the exact shade I was going for
_DSC4914 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4915 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4916 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4917 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4920 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Based on how she turned out I will do the air bridge as well to match.
Nice
Nice, looks like a Type-R valve cover finish
Looks sweet!
Nice!
Removed the rear trunklid emblem, it really cleaned up the look. Car got half detailed, I will finish the paint correction on my own.
_DSC4940 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4941 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
More Goo Gone,
_DSC4943 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Magic 3M eraser wheel works wonders yet again, but this will have to be polished out
_DSC4944 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Compound
_DSC4945 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
After compound, there was still a raised ridge in the paint, can’t catch it with a fingernail, but visible if you look hard for it in the right light.
_DSC4946 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
After polish it is invisible from more than 3 inches away
_DSC4947 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4948 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Dug out my old valve spring tool so I can get ready for the LS6 install later this week, it got bent during the install of the old big duals on the BMW 6.0. I’m going to weld up some gussets on it to stiffen it, should hold up better.
_DSC4951 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
Piecing together my cutout stuff, I will tack them all in place and have a shop finish TIG them together for me. V-Band for serviceability
_DSC4952 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4953 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
_DSC4954 by Norbert Ogiba, on Flickr
I will need to put some kind of turn down together for the outlet of the valve, possibly wrap the leaf spring in heat resistant insulation to prevent melting it.
More to come later this week, gonna mock up the cutouts, install valvesprings, LS6 intake, paint the airbridge wrinkle red, delete AIR system, etc
what kind of cutouts are you using? have you used them before?
im curious to find out how much they leak. i kind of want to run them on the truck
you’re looking at the cutouts…they’re the ones in the last couple pics
don’t know if they leak or not, haven’t installed them dude
I should get a boost activated one for my buick, would be sweet.
lol I can see you haven’t installed them.
i just wasn’t sure if you used the same ones on the BMW or some other application.
they are a lot cheaper than the electric ones ive been looking up that’s for sure.
in for results.
I had a QTP on the BMW which died quickly and i said fuck it and threw it in the basement and forgot about it. It sucked, you’d have to hold the momentary switch down for at least 5 seconds and never really knew when it was fully open (motor would also keep running, possibly stripping gears). Shit design
If these don’t work I’m not out a lot of cash, I think they’ll be fine
I have the trick flow valve spring compressor if you don’t want to use that jacked up thing…
im interested to see how you control the vacuum.
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come out to visit California and bring that 
Can you use a solenoid and a switch to control if the cutout sees vacuum or not?
I would think its possible, that way you can turn it off if you want.
Also is the spring pressure adjustable? If you can adjust it, in theory you can make it so at idle the vacuum is enough to open the cutout? Basically making it switch operated with a solenoid?