This year’s is going to be a lot cooler. The competition is a lot of fun, we design and build the thing from the ground up. All of it (aside from a few off the shelf components) is designed and fabricated by us at school.
Also we might stick a bike motor in our car from 2010, which we still have all/most of in the shop/installed on the 2012 car (in the pic).
My recent curiosity is how come DSM’s less than 15 years old are rustier and fall apart the moment a wrench touches them, when cars 4 times as old made with hundreds of times less technology back then come apart bolt by bolt time and time again in most cases??? LOL
But for real, I am back to header construction and design research since I have 3 different ones coming up I have to build.
Is it possible is NEVER the question. Its HOW can it be done.
There is a local guy that Dumpybunny knows and works with real well that will tell you that. They have taken stock cranks from tractors, stick welded to the jurnals material, then cut the jurnals on a crank lathe, and made stroker cranks, that were never ever produced elsewhere. taking 400ci engines past 680ci, that hold thousands of lbs of tq, 200+ psi of boost and rev twice as fast if not more than the motors were designed to. Also straightens them BY HAND with torches, gauges and fixtures… all out of a barn millions of people drive by in the middle of farm country, people would never know was going on.
where there is a will there is a way… simple as that.
This is why I am always researching stuff I already feel like I have a firm grasp on or atleast a bit of expierence with and finding the people out there that “talk the talk”, but after i walked their talk then see they were right… I focus more on the rest of the talk they talk i have yet to walk (lol)… if you get my long retarded drift there.
What I am saying is the amount of miss-information out there is staggering, from people putting in “solidified” 2 cents that are just not right, let alone the blanket statement like I quoted. (this isnt a ball busting skid, just using this for example). So when your curiosity kicks in and you do research, be cautious of these “facts” out there.
Case and point, I wanted to find the best oil feed source for daves eclipse build, since its feeding a $2200 turbo, I want to make sure its right. DSM fourms had a ton of “know it alls” saying what port on the oil filter housing to use, and more than a few were totally wrong on how the housings worked and had a few people buying into them and running the feeds from the port they said, then backed it up with “well mine has been running fine”. until one guy came in and took the time to take pics of the housings and the ports & runners for the oil flow and explained how the port they were using was unfilitered and un cooled oil when the first guys thought it was the opposit. Took pics and explained the design step by step. Some would call it a KK rant, others looking for RIGHT information would call it a needle in a haystack that could save someones expensive turbo!
Those motors are piles.
explain how.
:pop
young kid with a ford ranger VS a guy that built a few nissans and countless other cars in his day
annnd go!
I wouldent call them piles, but hardly efficient if you wanted to “build” them compared to an EFI motor. If I did not buy a 240/260 with a motor swap already done I’d just rock the Stock motor and rock it as a cruiser until I got the money to swap.
Skid, Im quite aware it costs money to do a motor swap. Regardless I don’t want to build one for power, I’m over wanting something thats ridiculously fast. It would be easier to swap in a and much more efficent to just pop in an RB25/26 or even some sort of V8 and get an easy 300+ whp than it would to do soe with the L28.
Theres a local with a built 240Z with an L28, makes a bit over 300hp with it, has to run race gas all the time and the motor is very temperamental.
and instead of pistons, rods, rebuild, gaskets, head rebuilding, $400 for injectors, $800+ for a turbo, fmic, wg, bov, tuning, fuel pump(s), lines, etc… to build an FI L engine to make 300hp…
$450 from JBAP will get you a LM7 5.7L with harness, $50 for an ecu from a truck, hand full of wires and the motor runs it self off a battery on the ground, gets you a motor making 300hp also. Also all the replacement parts are available over the counter at Napa, Advance, or anywhere under the sun, or out of thousands of trucks in junk yards across the nation for nickels. Instead of looking for relic old nissan parts.
just sayin.
I wouldent do FI on the L series motor, the gy with the built 240Z around here is not FI either, its N/A with a ridiculously aggreive cam and a fuck ton of motor work :rofl
Before I even read this post I knew you would mention a truck motor swap :lol
Im wondering why many drifters, mostly people with 240’s, go out of there way to make there cars look like complete shit. Any thoughts?
If it already looks like shit you don’t feel nearly as bad when you F up and slide it into a wall.
I’ll bet the second half of that sentence works well to accomplish the first.
Nah i mean like why do they rice them out… just to crash them so then they have to rice them out all over again.
or why every 17 year old with a POS 240 thinks theyre the king of drifting
Because drifting is sport about style, not speed or times. When people start out they are afraid to damage their car, but after realizing how much fun it really is, they don’t care about their car anymore.
cars have feelings you know.
I’m not talking about damaging it… I’m talking about putting on shitty ground effects and such.
How to do meticulous body work on a duraflex fiberglass widebody and what to do to correctly prep it for someone to paint it
Im wondering how hard its gonna be to change a wheel bearing tomorrow on my truck. Ive gotta drive it 300 miles or so on Sunday so I dont want to fuck it up and break something trying to replace it.