What would you pay for a SBC that needed some TLC?

NYSpeed Automotive
1

It came out of a boat. The intake mani wasn’t sealed properly so leaned out one cylinder and there is a hole in the piston. Cylinder walls look good, I figure a quick hone and some new rings and obviously one new piston would get this thing going again.

Run of the mill 350, 4 bolt main, sold new in 2005. All the other cylinders look minty. Cast iron heads, no cracks etc.

I don’t know much about these motors, value wise. But I have an opportunity to pick one up for not much $ and I have some dumb ideas running through my head of where I could use one though.

So if you were in my shoes what would you pay for said motor?

2

Id pay whatever its worth in scrap

3

Not much. You can get a junkyard LS motor for 350-600. Scrap value as stated above.

4

At least its not a LT1

5

300 bucks tops. You can get a running block for 500 from junkyard

6

Don’t boats use a reverse cooling system? may also not have provisions for a mechanical fuel pump. its got a hole in a piston? $100 tops

7

+1

8

3,000 tops

9

If we’re talking pennies, yes, $30 seems fair. :tup:

10

$50 bucks for a non running SBC is what I go.

11

you do not want the newer style blocks.

12

I can rebuild it for you if you’re interested… but if not maybe this will help

You’ll need new pistons (they’re pretty cheap) and you’ll need it balanced (300$ @ machine shop)

Seals and gaskets are probably going to run 50$ for oem rebuild stuff.

Marine motors are a little different from car engines keep that in mind

13

J

Think he would be better off doing it himself. If it is just 1 piston you can purchase 1 OEM piston from Northeast machine with no balance job involved.

Please educate me on how marine small blocks are “different”

14

I know some marine engines are reverse rotation . For a sbc it might not matter but a big block mopar were the rear main seal rides on the crank the grooves need to be machined off so it doesn’t draw the oil threw the seal. I think the cam was different also.

15

4 bolt main!!!

16

Yeah because purchasing 1 off weight piston from an unmatched set cast & machined today to match another set of pistons 20 years apart is a GREAT IDEA

How about the fact that A FUCKING BOAT MOTOR sits around 3500-7000 rpm all day long cruising?

A crankshaft with only two ounce-inches of imbalance at 2,000 rpm will be subjected to a force of 14.2 lbs. At 4,000 rpm, the force grows to 56.8 lbs. Double the speed again to 8,000 rpm and the force becomes 227.2 lbs.

Sounds like great reliability coming from J&J speedshop.

17

Lol always great reliability with my engines stupid. Think that has been proven time and time again. What have you built that makes 800-900 rwhp??

Again stupid a 7000 rpm marine engine?? All marine engines except race boats will redline at 4900-5500 rpms. Not to mention the fact he isnt going to use it in a boat. Also save the math for someone who can actually build an engine. He can call northeast and get damn close on weight on the heavy end and use a die grinder for the rest

18

Or he could spend his couple hundred bucks on a 70’s block like everyone else who builds non ls series small blocks.

As for J & J I have watched your pissing contests all over this forum, and I couldn’t possibly care less. However, any machine shop this is half way refutable would NEVER say to buy 1 OEM piston. You buy the set, they are cheap.

19

Yeap you are right. Same way newer blocks are junk. Another internet warrior

20

I’ve replaced one piston with no issues, just saying. If you want to do it on the cheap and cheap it won’t be an issue.