Wheel Fitment / Suspension Setup

i finally got my s13 SR build to the point its drivable, mostly cosmetic stuff left. i want to get it sitting nice, but don’t know much about adjusting the suspension and wheel fitment.
i had the car looking pretty good, not alot of fender gap, i’d like a little less, but my exhaust is sooo low, its a greddy ti-c catback and the resinator has 1" of clearence. i raised the rear coils lastnight just so i could get out of my driveway, but it doesnt look the best.

Here is what i have on the car :

XXR 962 - Front 18x8.5 - 235/40 +35
Rear 18x9.5 - 255/35 +35

BC Racing BR Type Coilovers

Megan Racing Suspension Parts
-Front & Rear Control Arms
-RLCA
-Tension Rods
-Traction Rods
-Toe Arm
i think the sway bars are the only stock suspension on the car

i know now i should not have bought those high offset wheels, but until i can afford a new set i want to try to make them work. the front tires were rubbing on the coils, right now i have 8mm spacers on front and none on back (i bought a set of 25mm, 5mm & 3mm spacers from someone local) i had the 5mm on back and 3mm on front, you could fit maybe a piece of paper between the tire and coil, it seemed to sit alright, but the wheel wasnt sitting right and after fixing it i had to double the spacers, now even with the 8mm you can still only fit a piece of paper between them. is there a minimum gap that is recommended? or just as long as they are not rubbing?

my driver side fender needs to be replaced too, and cant find a stock fender anywhere, all the parts stores say they are discontinued. i plan to get the origin streamline aero eventually. so i was wondering if i should get their front over fenders too? if i get the front fenders, would i also need the rear to look normal?

i want to lower the car, but i dont think i would be able to drive it without ripping off the exhaust. i even used clamps on the exhaust bushing to try to keep it up a bit. any tips?

i dont even know what im asking here, anything info you can add will make me happy

piiiiiiiicsss

i dont have any good pics, a bunch of shitty ones i took the other night, before i raised the rear coils
i dont really like those wheels, sometimes i think they look nice, if the car is not slammed they are gross tho.

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/smokinex/Camera%20Awesome%20Photos/preview_image_0_90045202x_zpsfdc031c7.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/smokinex/Camera%20Awesome%20Photos/preview_image_0_86740352x_zps4f508641.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/smokinex/Camera%20Awesome%20Photos/preview_image_0_16331932x_zpsd20235db.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/smokinex/Camera%20Awesome%20Photos/preview_image_0_72151582x_zps15a997d5.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/smokinex/Camera%20Awesome%20Photos/preview_image_0_92004752x_zpsb06bd323.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn25/smokinex/Camera%20Awesome%20Photos/preview_image_0_25329702x_zpsbe663739.jpg

If you want a replacement fender then just look around here, plenty of cars get parted out on a monthly basis.

If your going to run overs then your going to need some wheels to match, +35’s with over’s will look sunk without and extra 50 KG of spacer.

The internet will only give you so many answers, at the end of the day it’s all just nuts and bolts. So go outside, fuck around, drive it. Rinse and repeat.

i know that, but if i dont get overs, with the spacers the wheels are gonna stick out past the stock fenders, they already stick out a bit and i still gotta go a few more mm’s. would a fender pull give me that extra bit to make it flush?

i can’t fuck around with out potentially wasting money. i’d have to buy a fender and spacers, the wheels might still be to far out, then i’d need over fenders and different spacers. that’s not cheap. which is why im asking ppl that have more experience then me for help

it’s all part of the game man.

http://www.rimsntires.com/specs.jsp might help

i have similar xxr wheels 18x8.5/9.5 +35 and have thought about all this.

first off sounds like you dont have much negative camber dialed in if the wheels are somewhat flush.

check the upper hole where the coil mounts to the knuckle. it is usually slotted and can let the wheel sit closer to the spring, my wheels cleared in the front with just a 3mm spacer giving it about 3mm clearance.

if i were to get those wheels to fit:

front offset should be +20 (15mm spacer) i would say +15 if you were using 225/40R18

and 10mm spacer in the rear (to minimize camber) you could go up to a 20mm spacer (+15 offset) but you would need stretched 225 and more camber (killing tires/traction)

this is with -3F/-2R deg camber and rolled fenders. you could get more aggressive wheel fitment with front/rear fenders or pulled quarters but you dont want to go much bigger than a 20-30 spacer IMO

your on 18’s and the exhaust is that low? do you have poly hanger bushings? its either not hung up proper or just a bad design from greddy, but if its that bad maybe you need a custom catback that is tight up against the underbody.

Dont bother fitting those wheels and tire sizes.
What kind of look are you going for?
Sell your exhaust and support a local fab shop and get one made up that doesn’t sit all goofy like 90% of aftermarket exhausts.

I would sell those rims.

thanks for the info!

for camber i didnt play with it much, or anything else on the suspension besides the coils, im still pretty new to all of this.

so if i go with a 15 or 20mm spacer, should they look decent with a roll/pull? or would i need like a 20mm over fender? i think they would stick out quite a bit.

is there an easy way to measure camber? i’ll make up some temp spacers and fuck around with the camber today.

another thing i noticed last week when i removed the front tires, both tie rod end boots are busted, both are bran new, and the car hasnt been driven on them at all.

i need a new set of exhaust bushings for sure, but i dont think it will help much anyways, i have hose clamps around them so they dont stretch but its still low. the stock bushing mounts snapped and i welded bolts higher then the originals. i have a few ideas that might raise it a bit tho. im going do some welding today and see what happens. thanks again for the help!!

---------- Post added at 01:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:40 PM ----------

[QUOTE=I<3-SR20DET;3397833]Dont bother fitting those wheels and tire sizes.
What kind of look are you going for?
Sell your exhaust and support a local fab shop and get one made up that doesn’t sit all goofy like 90% of aftermarket exhausts.[/QUOTE]

i plan on getting new wheels when i get back to work, i paralyzed my arm in a bike accident and not to many companys want to give a 1 arm welder a chance. so for now its all i can afford

i want it lowered, and hate big fender gaps, but i also want to be able to drive around without tearing something off.

since i decided to do the car i was planning on getting the origin streamline bodykit, but i dunno if i can pull it off. but this is basically the look im going for.
i found this car a few weeks ago with the steamline kit, and i think that sits pretty sweet. but i have no idea how to get it to that point.

i was working around with the suspension a little bit.

Front - 10mm -3 DEG CAMBER
Rear - 15mm -2 DEG CAMBER - (Never done camber on rear yet)

i done the toe alignment, with the string and jackstands, i got them straight just by adjusting the tie rod ends

to adjust rear camber, do i use the ruca’s for adjustment?

is there a way to test rear toe?

does anyone have info on caster?