When it rains it pours.

Instead of a cool build thread, this is my vent thread. Its shitty and lame but it also has a purpose as I need to buy some parts.

Friday I attempt to swap my brake master out for a 17/16 300ZX master. I bought it used so not risking it I go ahead and buy a rebuild kit for it. No problem rebuild the sucker and go ahead and install it. Really its only a 30 min job minus the brake bleeding…thats what I thought. I try to bleed the rear brakes after bleeding the master, turns out the 300ZX master isnt flowing any fluid to the rear brakes. I unplug the brake like from the master and holy shit no fluid is coming out of it. The sucker is clogged. No matter what I do there is no fluid coming out of the line. Oh well the 300ZX master is fubared, time to get a new remaned one on monday. So I go ahead and bench bleed my original master and reinstall it. I bleed all my lines and go to start the car, funny pedal is a bit spongy. I go for a spin, pedals sinks way too far. Not good. Bleed the brakes again. Not a sign of air. Ok, pull the master, bench bleed it again. reinstall, same thing, pull it again drain it completely, refill it then bench bleed it a third time. SAME FUCKING story…no firm pedal. At this point Im lost, how does a perfectly good master go to shit from a re and re? It feels like there is air in the system but I cant fathom where it comes from? What I do see is that the master looks like its getting air from within somehow as when you push the pedal it creates a splash inside the cylinder. When you first install the cylinder after bleeding it , the pedal feels decent then when you pump it it goes to shit so I can only conclude that the originial master is also broken.
http://www.uomeds09.com/DSM/Uploader/files/6/MG_9668.jpg

Oh Im at home in windsor doing all this and need to be back in Toronto for monday. So I say fuck it, mushy brake pedal will be fine for the drive home…Ill just baby it. I go out for a spin to see how bad the pedal is and its manageable. Funny, I smell coolant. Get home jack the car up and see that the coolant pipe on the turbo has got a bit of a leak. Odd as I tightened the bolts on the turbo to spec so they shouldnt be leaking. Maybe its the crush washers so I take the bolt out and replace the crush washers with some spares ive got. Install everything back in and top it up with coolant. Shit its still leaking. At this point I know its got to be the coolant line. Drain the coolant and pull the line. Sure enough a small crack has developed between the pipe and the round end fitting. This was 30 min ago.
http://www.uomeds09.com/DSM/Uploader/files/6/MG_9742.jpg

So thats my 12 hour day today, friday was a solid 10 hours. I swear this is what makes me ask myself why the hell I mod a car. The frustration that Ive went through today makes me want to take a sledgehammer to my car.

More so, Im stuck in windsor, no one will have a T28 turbo line here and ironically I sold my Taka lines cause i told myself that the stock lines would be just fine.

So, who has a T28 turbo coolant inlet line? That I can buy ASAP. Ill be back in Toronto on monday. Or has anyone ever tried to weld one up?
http://www.uomeds09.com/DSM/Uploader/files/6/MG_9741.jpg
http://www.uomeds09.com/DSM/Uploader/files/6/Untitled-1.jpg

Secondly, where can I buy a rebuilt 17/16 300ZX master cylinder. I know Napa carries them but not sure if they have the larger one. Any part numbers would help.

If Harp from Taka was still taking his biz seriously i could help you out with that line… he is 20 days late on my order.

that said, your vent thread sucks. i could out vent you with over a full year of incompetence.

Personally I’d love to hear the detailed story :slight_smile: Maybe it will make me feel better about my own situation :-/

as a quick fix you can use epoxy putty, they typically sell a bar/stick of that stuff for less than $10

they heat cure so wrap the hardline with a thin (1/8") layer and put it in the oven on low for an hour

should never leak again

we should have a special section in member’s for this type of thing.

i dont think you could even read all of mine and i’ll bet you $4 it makes you cry.

the banjo fittings are saudered, not welded onto the pipe from my experience.

I would just get the Earls or russel adapters and make up a steel softline quickly.

it’ll cost $50-70 to do though.

Worst case scenario, JB Weld over the affected area. It should hold until you get to where you’re going.

Dude!!!

This is so fucked up.

I had the same problems with BOTH THINGS!!

I had a water line crack and puke water all over the god damn place and fuck me while i was delivering pizza

AND!!

I got a M/C from part source and the mother fuckers who built it or wahtrever there was NO rear flow at ALL!! same exact thing. I bench bled it and nothing came out waht so ever like 2 days before a race.

I feel your pain its a fucking pita when parts suck

Oh i also have the coolant lines give me a call

I ended up welding the broken coolant line so Im all good on that end but this damn master cylinder has got me perplexed.

I cant find anywhere that carries 17/16 300ZX brake masters?! ARGH

Peter, what year of 300zx did they come on - any idea? I just checked a couple of model years on NAPA Pro Link and they all say “Bore Size: 1 inch”

I’ll check a few more…

Found it!

February 1991 z32 and older are the 1.0625" bore. (17/16") Anything newer is 1.0" bore.

Refurbished 17/16"
NAPA Part #: TSN 112560
Suggested list is $110
My Cost is $100 (shitty discount on refurb stuff)
Core Cost: $75.00

http://partimages2.genpt.com/partimages/72402.jpg

Brand New 17/16"
NAPA Part #: NUP 39777
Suggested list is $377
My Cost is $266
No core charge on the new one obviously.

http://partimages2.genpt.com/partimages/523143.jpg

Hope this helps!

Thanks for the info John!! Im out a car right now (swapping the engine on my Accord) but when its back on the road Ill probably hit you up for a refurbed unit.

I don’t mind putting the order in for you at all - you are more than welcome to do it through me but you should know that I live in Oakville and you’re only getting a $10 discount on the refurb so it may not even be worth your time to come out here.

Just let me know. You should know that they don’t stock these at the store so they’ll need probably 24-48 hours to get it in.

//edit// oh and those prices I posted are all + 14% tax… should have mentioned that.

hey man, i thought i could help with a little thread i found awhile back:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/244934

i’m not sure how similar the CA is to the SR in terms of fittings on the block, but it’s a start? maybe some SR owners can shed some light whether or not it’s the same.