I still write HTML on my own. HTML goes hand in hand with coding in PHP and other languages, so there really is no way to get around it all together. Yes, dreamweaver can be handy, but I still strive to not use it all the time. It makes you forget the basics. I use BBedit for all of my html editing, unless I am doing mass edits from Word documents I export to the web, for our graduate and undergraduate bulletings that we do once a year. For that, Dreamweaver is perfect for stripping all of the stupid word tags out of there.
–mark