After an 8 week project, the “ole turd” is finished. It started off small and ended up growing as the funds came in. Tell me what you think. Here’s what I’m running now on the power side:
*Fully Ported Heads (LE2 port work), 205cc intake runners, 11.3:1 CR, work done by LE
*2.02 in / 1.60 ex Manley Race Flo Valves
*LT4 Hotcam (218/228)
*LT4 intake, with heads machined to match up (including gasket matching)
*Comp Cams Magnum Self Aligning Rockers, 1.6 ratio
*Comp Cams Valvesprings, locks, and retainers
*Comp Cams Chromemoly Pushrods
*Accel 30 lb/hr Fuel Injectors
*Pacesetter Long Tube Headers (!AIR)
*True Dual 2.5in exhaust (!cats) w/ Thrush Bullets and X-pipe
*Zex Wet kit (100 shot)
*52mm Ported Throttle Body, with TB coolant bypass and Air Foil
*TunerCat tuning, via Solomon @ lt1pcmtuning.com (damn good mail order tuner)
*MSD Blaster Coil with MSD cap/rotor
*March Underdrive Pulley Kit (w/ Alternator pulley)
*1LE AC Delete Pulley
*Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator
*CAI w/ 3 in K&N Cone Filter
*Summit Mass Air Flow Sensor (CAI tuned)
*SLP 160 degree thermostat
*MSD Plug Wires
Since I’d rather not break my t-tops, the sub-frame connectors are ready to go on when I get a chance. But over all I am very content with how everything is. I know the hotcam is a mild cam, but that was the goal in mind with this project. With the heads ported where they are, a higher lift/duration cam could be used int he future if I get the itch for a little more power.
Thanks to Jeff down at First Try for a few late night welding jobs and technical assistance. Thanks to Josh over at Monro for adding some technical assistance as well. The project would have been a nightmare without you folks!
Thanks Quik. Seen you name on the forums a bit, and it was cool to put a name and a face together, lol
A Yank 2500-3000 converter is next on my list of things to do, but at the moment I just wanna enjoy what I have for a bit. Mainly because I havent driven this badboy in over 2 months, haha. Then the spring mods will begin again, woot.
I really hadn’t done too much planning on the converter as of yet, but if I remember correctly, don’t you select a converter based on 1000 rpm below your peak torque rpm? Or did I read that from somewhere and it was wrong?
BTW if anyone has an LT4 Knock module they are trying to get rid of, let me know. Summit can get me one in roughly a month, and GM wants my first born child for one Government Motors is gettin desprate. The LT4 KM is nearly a requirement if you have headers/roller rockers (or even just roller tips)
Looks good. I would definitely be tempted to go with a bigger cam & higher stall but it sounds like you were looking for something mild. Is passing emissions an issue for you? I have the same heads but with the LE3 cam (in a 383). With the LE2 cam in the 350 I did have a little cam surge.
2800-3k stall should be plenty for that setup. it’s not an lsx… it doesn’t need that loose of a converter.
I personally would of gone with a Comp 467 XFI or CC 503 for a daily, but to each their own. not my build.
check www.camaroz28.com for a knock module… i usually see them go for like 10-15 or so on there. haven’t been on that site for awhile though, seeing how it’s mostly lt1 stuff.
You know the part number for the LT4 knock module? I have one sitting around I had planned on using when I had my 94 TA, can’t remember if it is LT1 or LT4.
Yea, if you have one for sale that’d be great. The turn around time from getting one from Summit is about 3 weeks, and about the same from the dealer.
I’ve been working on the tuning, but I’m reading a boatload of knock. I hear its normal when headers/roller rockers are installed. So I’m at a standstill until I get that new module.
not sure about your car but there are various types of KR. the worst is audible which means your fucked lol. other is burst knock and then false KR. you have have it from a header hitting, you can have it from a converter bolt loose bascially anything making a noise in motor that it detects hell it can even pick up exhaust rattle. also non load knock, these arent as concern as audiable
Hey Quik, I’m not sure if you know the answer to this, but I have a quick tuning question. When the vehicle reads 128 BLM (block learn mod), it is “supposedly” at stoichiometric ratio. If it reads above 128 does that mean the engine is running rich and the PCM is trying to lean it out, or is it running lean and the PCM is trying to richen it up? Either way, to achieve 12.5-13.3 AFR the BLM would need to be either around 116 or 140 depending which richens/leans.
I know any exhaust leaks can have an effect on this, so right now is probably a dumb time to adjust the BLM since I heard a little bit of a leak at the header gasket. I also dont have the LT4 KM in yet, so I won’t be playing around with the closed loop spark advance for a little while.
BLM is block learn muliplier and yes is 128 at stoich which is 14.7 however with variences in gas mixtures some ppl set stoich to 14.58 at times to help offset the addatives the oil companies run so you dont run to lean and hurt motor. now to answer yoru question if the value is > then 128 it is then leaner then stoich. the value is raised cause the PCM is trying to correct for fueling. if the value is < 128 then the vehicle is rich and the pcm is trying to correct it back
matt if youre trying to tackle this yourself and in over your head some. ill be more then willing to help you dial this car in. you know how to contact me
Government Motors is gettin desprate. The LT4 KM is nearly a requirement if you have headers/roller rockers (or even just roller tips)