First off I wired my wrx for a system and for some reason the power goes on but then off rather quickly, someone told me I need to sand paper the spot I grounded it too, that maybe the paints blocking a good connection…idk any help would b great
On another note, I’m getting an STI spoiler, and need it painted silver to match my car, since it is blue now. I know someone out there can beat maacos price…lemme know thx
pm KrazyKid, he can do your spoiler.
Thx big red
WTF is this in moto discussion? Your WRX better look like this:
Sry idk where to put it my bad, still new…but no that looks nothing like my car sry lol
It is gonna be hard to beat Maacos price unless you find someone to do it in their garage independently or maybe HVCC Body Tech class. You get what ya pay for tho. You can do it yourself as well if you are on a budget.
Auto Body Supply in Schenectady can mix you paint in a rattle can for $60 to spray your spoiler with. I recently did this and can walk you through it. You will need various grit sand paper, primer, and clear. All available in spray cans and the staff at Auto body Supply are very helpful with products and technique. Plus when you are done any left over paint is great for touch up.
I bust balls first and give useful advice later. Just making sure we break ya in right.
:moved
Thanks sir!
Back on topic. Here is an example of my recent project painted with rattle can lacquer mixed to may paint code by VIN#. The intake was black plastic. I think it matches pretty good.
BEFORE:
AFTER:
That looks awful, you should probably cause yourself physical harm.
LOL JK
That actually looks really good Joe
Yea it looks great, except for the fact that it’s an early LS1 manifold. Fuck you, EGR.
http://www.shift518.com/showthread.php?p=783291#post783291
Yeah. LS6 manifolds are soooo much money now that all LS1, LS2, LS4, 4.8, 5.3, 6.0 guys want them. Anyone with cathedral ports wants the extra 10hp up top. I have a EGR block off. I have not had EGR for years…
I installed my LS6 intake about 5 years ago, then I sold it for the same price I bought it for just last year. I can’t believe how much money people pay for them used…
bumping this cause I think zREX05 lost it when Vlad moved it from Moto…
to answer the question, sand down or grind off ALL of the paint where your ground makes contact. Paint will not allow it to ground properly
Thx for the rep Dave.
I pm’d him this quote, no need to hide it IMO, i am honest with my work:
yeah I charge $80 a panel to shoot + materials. I can get the base and clear + its hardners for about $140. So $220 total.
Maaco paint jobs will look like ass. Orange peel, drips in the clear, junk. I take pride in my work: http://shift518.com/showthread.php?t=19550
thats just some of the stuff i have done. All those are with ZERO wetsanding, buffing or anything. Clear coat is a skill, to be able to shoot it that flat, without getting orange peel, tiny ripples, drips, and have enough clear physically on there for years of abuse without damage.
let me know, I can get the paint mixed in a days notice and shoot, base that night, clear the next and you can pick it up 2 days after (let the clear harden completely without touching it).
Later
Mike
Thats a pint of upper end base coat. with a 98% chance of perfect color match to factory color. (if autobody shops find the color the OEM manufacturer was SUPOSED TO ((cant be sure the factory cleaned their equipment so there is always a slim chance of pigment contamination)) XXXXX paint code, and thats what the shop mixes to, and after they shoot it its, off, they call it in and that color code and VIN/production batch gets a point off). When ever you get paint mixed ask for the matching percentage. If the percentage is LOW, better have a GOOD body shop scan the color and mix it custom with the computer. but thats way more information than anyone needs here. lol
Bottom line, this isnt MAACO color by number paint. Its somewhat expensive for materials because I dont shoot bunk ass paint through my guns! Any job worth doing, is a job worth doing right. :thumbup
Hes. My experience is Maaco = poor quality. I have seen a few examples none of which were very flattering. Hence why I suggested my approach. Im pretty sure I can do better work with rattle cans. I’m sure that someone at Maaco can probably do good work but will they?
There is a good reason REAL body shops charge $500 EASY to respray a bumper, $700 a hood, $400 a spoiler… those prices being cheap too. Good paint cost $. Good paint skills cost $. Time cost $. Just to prep the part, mix the materials, ready the gun, spray the base, wait for flash time, spray base again. Wait to dry. Clean the gun. Mix the clear, ready the gun, prep the part, spray the clear, wait to semi flash, spray, wait to semi flash, spray final cover (keeping it all wet and not running, not getting semi dry overlaps, not getting orange peel from being too light a cover pass…), cleaning the gun, waiting for the part to fully dry, all the while taking up room in your booth.
The labor is just as much to shoot a bumper as it would a major repair job on a full car. The actually spraying is about 10 minutes more for a multipanel repair, time is all in the prep, mixing the materials, setting up the gun, cleaning…
Also, the cost goes up for what seems like a simple job like shooting a bumper, becasue that bumper takes up space in the booth. Dont want some over spray from a red bumper being shot next to a white $4500 repair job, or the white over spray on the red bumper. Its all about logistics when your making a living off it.
I am doing this a one off side work, so I can afford to take the time to do it, and let it sit in my paint room not being disturbed, and while I wait I can do something else. Which is why I charge HALF what it would to bring it to a real shop.
tried that, still nothing, im gonna look at the remote wiring tomorrow, see if i can run it somewhere that will give it more/enough power…thx for your help tho
make sure all your connections are tight, nothing is crossing, no wires are touching and that your ground is under 3 ft long. those would be the places where id start
