I need to get a cylinder compression test to check for a blown head gasket.
does it smoke? if so what color
call paul at swerve and we will get you scheduled in to come on down. I could do it tomorrow afternoon noonish if you’re free.
What car is it?
yes yes swerve is the place and when andy starts sweating it get real sexy there
:pedo:
theyre like $30 at autobone, go get yourself one.
oh, and your headgasket is blown
compression test won’t necessarily find a bad head gasket, but it can tell you if the compression is low, which could be head gasket, valves, piston, warped head, etc…
lol, nice jam, nice. (funny thing is, he’s most likely right)
diablo, we also do headgasket fixes on the cheap with a super quick turnaround.
edit: we can also do a leakdown test.
Alright which one is cause I see buffalo and depew ones and a price for the test. I’d have no problem doing it myself, but I wanna make sure it is whats wrong.
Heres the post for it, perhaps someone knows whats wrong or can second the bad HG:
One day while I was driving my car started to overheat. Over the days it progressively did it quicker and quicker. I changed the rad cap, thermostat, CTS, all new coolant. I filled it up a few times to make sure there was no air in thwe system. The car runs perfectly fine even when the needle is spiked, meaning id doesn’t chug or try to stall. It doesn’t have any leaks that I can see. Relays and fuses are good. The needle will spike within minutes of driving. Coolant level is fine, It sometimes will end up bubbling in the resevior(rarely) and sometimes sends coolant into the resevior from the rad, but doesn’t seem to want to suck any back in, but when I check it only needs like 2 ounces. I know that when the coolant doesn’t go from the resevior to the rad its the rad cap, but it will go from the rad to the resevior. . My big questions is the fan. It only kicks on when the needles spikes to the top…
temperature sensor, change it, or wire the fan to a toggle switch and control it yourself.
check your coolant for oil… and check your oil for coolant (milkshake lookin)
water pump?
+1. I don’t know what Swerve would charge you but I’m willing to bet it’s at least $30.
I would always rather buy tools that I’ll have forever than pay someone to do something I don’t have the tools for. Within reason of course.
Got a test done today at a shop. Pressure is fine. Changed the sensor already and have ran the fan manually. Also changed the oil and nothing in there. Water pump broke like 2 months ago so replaced it with one that only had like 20,000 on it and when the last one broke it really broke so I’m geussing it can’t fall apart without noticing. I’m thinking its clogged somewhere so I’m gunna drain and run a hose through everything.
I still got 10 bucks on the headgasket being blown.
The 01+ civics are notorious for that, with the same exact symptoms as described. My ex-gfs car 03 civic did the same damn thing. She took it to multiple repair shops and dealerships (obviously after the relationship 
) and they told her a million different things (not one suggested headgasket). I knew better after a quick search on h-t, and fixed it.
I’d still try the fan thermoswitch first seeing as that’s the simplest thing to try first.
Did you do a thermostat yet? I would lean towards a common problem like that first. Are you bleeding the coolant or just filling and driving and filling? Did you ever set timing correctly with a gun after this swap? Timing being off will make the car run hot.
Flushed everything out, nothing seems to have clogged it but its fixed, fans runs and it takes coolant from the resevior. Idk what I did since there wasn’t much dirt or anything in the coolant. Only other thing I did was reconnected my heatshield ground, which fixed my starters barely working.