I need the later style spring plate and thrust washers for an s50 intake cam. I need #'s 9, 10 & 11 in the picture.
The part numbers are: #9. 11361403822 (2mm stop disk) #10. 11361403550 (spring plate) #11. 11361403823 (4mm stop disk)
The sooner the better, can pick the stuff up… I know some of you have parts laying around… Adam, Jon, Jesse, Etc…
The dealer wants almost $50 just for the 2mm stop disk… Seeing as how its a non-wear item, I’d like to grab it off of someone local if possible.
Those are actually wear parts due to VANOS operation. Used parts need to be mic’ed to ensure no wear however most of the time you find them IGC. I gave all the misc pares to clark before he left. I can check the shop today but I’m 99% sure I don’t have anything here. I haven’t been up in storage in ~8 months and have no idea what’s there.
I’m not entirely sure how the stop disks would be considered a wear item. Unless from the vanos advancing/ returning to its rest position stresses the disks? The ones I have here in all 3 cylinder heads that are the early style look to be in great condition actually. The one motor I have here has close to 180k on it. I can see the spring plate being less effective later on due to the fatigue of holding the vanos splined cup taught to remove the slack. The “stop disks” are also referred to as “trust washers.” Honestly they are just big thick washers with 4 holes in them.
If anything, I’d be pumped if you found the stop disks. Even just the outrageously priced 2mm one. I have no problem replacing the spring plate with a fresh part though. They’re only around $6 from the dealer. Worst comes to worse I’ll be ordering them from the stealer.
Let me know if you come up with anything, and thanks again.
They are considered wear items because they have, although very small, rotational wear against the one cam sprocket. The friction between the shim plates and the sprocket is what provides the necessary force for the VANOS to work. Like I said 99% of the time they have virtually no wear but should still be mic’ed as if they’re worn by more than a few thousands the VANOS won’t work properly. The springs actually wear the most near the very center and outer most ends of the fingers where they apply the pressure to the disks.
Also check and inspect those three 10mm hex posts off the cam gear and the three retention nuts as well. I’ve seen those break right clean off and if that happens = Typically when setting up the head those nuts are only like hand tight, but i still apply some brake cleaner to the threads and a dab of blue threadlocker.
I looked around real quick upstairs but didn’t see anything unfortunately. I would try giving Jon adams a shout as he may have some spare head parts at his place.
BTW, I have all the cam timing tools for these motors if you need assistance setting up the head when your done.
I figured it would have a very minimal wear pattern from the washers “riding” on each other. I knew the spring plate could definitely lose its form/ strength from the clamping force of the vanos.
I do know about the combo studs/ stops. They should be torqued to 89 in lbs. iirc. I believe they are m6, so that should be they’re torque value. I will take your advice and throw some locker on them for piece of mind.
Thanks for taking a look for me. I took the plunge and bought the parts anyway. At least I got them wholesale. LOL. I am almost 100% positive that the “diesel” like slapping sound I’m hearing coming from the intake side of the valve cover is the slack due to the lack of washers and spring plate. All signs point to that as the suspect.
I really appreciate the offer on the tools. Unfortunately I can’t use the tdc pin as my Jb racing ltwfw has no tdc hole. I put the car in gear and pulled up the e-brake when I turned the motor to tdc. I kept my eye on the timing cover mark and it was spot on the whole time. The only one tool I am missing is the dummy primary tensioner. I have been advised by multiple reliable sources that using the factory tensioner with a “shim” or a small solid piece to insert in the cavity is permissible. The dummy is only hand tightened at 1 1/2 lbs. iirc, so its pretty null. I would have bought the updated later s50/ 52 style primary tensioner but at $100 I bought a fresh piston and spring for mine instead. I doubt that is my problem anyway.
You have been a great help dude. I’ll let you know what happens come Tuesday when the washers and spring plate show up. :thumbup
Jesse,
Yes they are different within the early style m50’s and later s50/ s52… In March '95 is when they changed styles. The later ones use 2mm/ 4mm washers and the spring plate in addition to what is under the intake sprocket on the camshaft side (reference wheel/ washer.) The Primary tensioners on later cars are a “sealed” unit which use a circlip, spring, and piston. It must be replaced as a whole. The older style has no retaining clip and a spring, piston, and 19mm cap which can all be replaced individually.
Adam,
I do have the cam locking tools. They are really the only crucial tool imo to doing this job properly.
I’ll borrow the primary tensioner tool you made. I’m not sure its really necessary, but what the hell. I’ll use it just to say I did. I’ll throw you a couple bucks just for the usage. Shoot me your # and let me know when I can come grab it from you.
??? Yeah any of the VANOS equipped E36’s can swap components. M52 can use any S50/52 VANOS parts and swap heads, etc. The differences in core componets lie in valvetrain and rods/piston, etc.
Typically when setting up the head those nuts are only like hand tight, but i still apply some brake cleaner to the threads and a dab of blue threadlocker.
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