Sure, if you can tell me what model clutch it is (I know it’s an Ogura Racing Clutch (ORC) but no idea what model) and find me the right disks.
Oh, and it needs a special throwout bearing in order to work too. Stock won’t cut it.
Just measure the disk size and order the appropriate replacements from Tilton.
http://tiltonracing.com/pdfs/driveline07.pdf
TOB is the same standard one that everyone with a twin or triple uses (crosses to BMW/Nissan and I think Subaru multi disks).
It’s actually an old school Datsun part number. Though I can’t remember it off the top of my head.
Ask Kyle, it was his, he might have an idea.
First place I checked. No one knows what model it is.
bummer
I had the same thing happen to 2 different Subarus I have owned, a Sti and a Legacy. Both times it was after the car sat not being moved for a couple months in the winter and both times it was exedy clutches. The Sti clutch would not come apart at all, I had to take a pry bar to it and the Legacy clutch looked exactly like that one.
I could see that with a cerametallic material.
My bad, I failed to read the full first post and read the clutch material.
You seem like you’re pretty good at contacting manufactures, start contacting! 
http://www.oguraclutch.co.jp/english/e_bus_auto.html
Updates!
Turns out the specific feramic material used in my clutch was discontinued a while ago because it would melt under hard launches. What likely happened is that I melted it just enough at some point so that I didn’t notice any driveability issues, but enough that it made the material more prone to oxidation. The feramic material has since been improved to a 1,500+ degree formula.
And I wasn’t alone - a few others reported the same findings:
I had roughly 5000km on the clutch kit and it worked great up until the launch.
As far as the flywheel it was a resurfaced OEM unit.
As I stated to others I had to get across a major intersection fast to avoid getting smashed and I flashed it to 3500-4400ish and released the cluch pedal, by time I reached for second the unit was seized and remained as such until prying off with screw driver.
Neither the flywheel or pressure plate were blued or looked overheated at all.
I may go to a Kevlar setup this time around, we’ll see.
what mike said :tup:
and as far as throwout bearing, i might have something that could work for you
im gonna have a spare throwout bearing i believe
Bmw guys were fuse’ing there discs to there pressure plates on a regular basis with the southbend clutches. Are you the only one with a key to your vehicle while being stored? cause it looks like someone got that sucker real hot and then just parked it. Kinda like doing laps at dunnville then parking it and standing on the breaks.
So…They were discontinued for this problem, but are they going to do anything for you?
Thanks, but I’m not going to use my twin disk. I just don’t need that much clutch and call me a girl, but I’m just not too fond of the noise it made when it was in 2TurboZs car. Maybe if I ever turned this into a track only car.
I sent it to the body shop in '08 to get some freshening up and a new lower radiator support, but I shipped it to them without a MAF and other front-end parts. So there was no way they could start it. Then after the body shop put it back together incorrectly (none of the pipes tightened, BOVs hooked up to my carbon canister, etc.) I put the MAF back on just so I could start it and see what was up, but it barley held idle there were so many leaks. It wasn’t being driven anywhere far let alone dumping the clutch, lol.
Here are some comments from the guy I bought the clutch from:
You simply can’t drag on the feramic full face, It just builds to much heat and can stick like yours did.
The stuff is killer for street and track use because it holds a lot of TQ and last forever but it just can’t take the heat from drag racing. The 2 drag runs is probably what did it in.
I did drag race on mine multiple times but never let it slip, I just dumped it and went.
Another issue with yours maybe that back then the feramic only came in 240mm facings so the TQ numbers were not nearly as high as they are now that they use the 250mm linings.
We hardly ever see the Audi/VW seize the feramic, The cars are lighter/geared lower and don’t seem to ever melt the stuff. Actually the Z’s are about the only cars we see this in.
We have Porsche guys beat the living hell out of these kits and have never had one stick.I have a guy in a 850RWTQ twin turbo G35 and ripped the straps off the pressure plate after 2 years of brutal abuse to one of the kits which was rated at only 690TQ and the disk still looked almost new.
Feramic is a mix of sintered iron and graphite. Sintered iron is what is used in almost any high power drag car. By itself it is VERY aggressive and locks instantly. Feramic has graphite added to it to let it drive smooth for everyday use.
The MIBA Ceramic pucks used on just about everyones 6 pucks clutch kits (yes even SZ) have a high feramic base and is where they get the higher TQ rating from, Ceramic by itself doesn’t hold much TQ.
Not discontinued; revised. But yeah of course, despite ultradriver’s lack of faith.
I haven’t decided if I’m going to go with their updated feramic or a kevlar disk yet, but I’m shipping them back everything including my flywheel for resurfacing and their taking care of it :tup:
The manufacturer states that it contains sintered iron. A ferrous material, probably where the F in feramic comes from. I was reading that and wondering if you were just spelling it wrong until I read a little further. Anyhow. If you look at your pictures of your clutch disc it shows signs of discoloration that looks like rust, in otherwords, oxidation. I think that it was just like that from sitting for so long, otherwise you would have had issues getting into gear when you were driving the car. It would have never disengaged if it melted and fused to thre pressure plate or flywheel. I’m not saying that they can’t fuse, I’m saying that in your case it looks like it was just from sitting too long. Drive your car 
How much torque are you making? Has the car been on a dyno? You probably don’t need that heavy duty of a clutch.
I honestly can’t believe they are doing anything for you after almost 4 years. That is insane! It is good for you though, congrats. Are you planning on putting it in your car and driving it? Tons of guys have twin disc clutches in vettes and don’t seem to complain about them. I drove a twin disc vette and it seemed stock like other then a little noise hardly noticeable then the clutch was not engaged.
I’ll be putting in the clutch setup they send back to me, not the twin disk I’ve got. I’m getting a Kevlar disk this time around. This way it will hold the same power level but won’t rust if I don’t drive the car for long periods of time.
are they replacing it free of cost?
Not free, but close to it considering the costs of comparable products.
Missed your edit. I’ve never dyno’d on my setup but I should be in the area of 500ft/lbs. This clutch was rated at 600ft/lbs.
so wait…Does this mean you are working on the Z?