Clutch for SR20DET

Has anyone had any experience with this CP Racing clutch for a SR20DET? Is it any good? The price seem high so I was wondering if it’s worth the money? Im looking for a nice clutch but at the same time I don’t feel like spending $325.00 USD on a clutch. Any sugestions?

http://www.cpracing.ca/productimages/disc.jpg

Nissan SR20 DET Performance clutch kit
Performance clutch kit, includes 4 or 6 puck, Ceramic, sprung clutch disc and an upgraded pressure plate. 4 or 6 Ceramic disc pucks provide no slip assurances for revs up to 10,000rpms and 375bhp. A 35-40% grip pressure increase is realized, yet the sprung disc allows for easy street driving and no rock hard clutch pedal. Better than ACT or Center force, race tested parts. Perfect for drifting auto-crossing, road course racing and lapping events. SHIPPING AND TAXES INCLUDED. We will pay for ground shipping within North America.

Reg: $325.00USD

i’ve been told that clutch is made by euro drive. i bet you could get some better pricing if you go directly to them. take them your old clutch and tell them what you want. and you wont find anything that holds that kinda power for cheaper. i got a really good deal on a exedy ceramic clutch and it cost me $350us.

Exedy Hyper Single - only $1100 :wink: Includes pplate, disc and lightened flywheel. You will NEVER run out of clutch on that 8)

No shameless plug, I just want one… :frowning:

lol what a peice of trash, 375bhp? thats like 350ftlbs of TQ best on most motors, which works out to about 300whp! A stock clutch can almost do that!

Go with a better designed eurodrive or an RPS

That’s actually just a segmented clutch, not a puck.

Pucked indicates the actual plate be seperated for each contact point (like a star, or whatever).

Anyway, fyi any fwd maxima clutch will work on the sr. Might be cheaper going that route.

I’ve heard good things about the ACT clutches which is what I bought.
I got the heavy duty which is unsprung. You may want to consider the
HDSS if you think the un-sprung HDR6 is gonna be a bitch.

I’ve heard mixed reviews on the RPS which is why I stayed away.

Search on FA, Zilvia, etc. to see what others have experienced.

what they said…

Rogue Fish Media - home :wink:

Hmm… dis/advantages of puck vs. segmented? (not directed at you specifically Jon but anyone who knows the answer)

dont get a SPEC

i have one, Ed has always sent me links to threads on FA about people blowing theirs up.

mine is noisy although it doesnt slip.

i would like to try something else, always heard good things about ACT.

I have and can get you new FR SR20DET Nissan clutches with pressure plates… 200 to 250 for the presure plate/clutch/bearing for the stock Nissan DET set.

Contact myself or Spilner, or call MSSC…

or u can call euro drive and pay about the same amount as ^^^ for a upgraded clutch i dunno, maybe its just me but that makes more sence,

like seriouly who suggests getting a stock clutch :dunno:

Who buys stock clutches?

Who buys 1,000 times the clutch they need?

You can’t call up Eurodrive and have them make you a clutch, with pressure plate, TOB etc and expect to get it for that price.

In all honesty, beyond the material used, a Eurodrive (or similar) performance clutch shouldn’t cost any more than an OEM unit.

Unsprung clutches are better suited to drag. You know “range of engagement” - ie how hard and how quickly the clutch grabs - is controlled by springs.

Without them, your clutch becomes an on/off switch. No slip.

Every time you move the car from a dead stop you have to “pop” the clutch.

Try driving your car right now by only slamming your foot on the clutch and off. Try starting up from a stop light without slipping the clutch.

That’s what day to day driving will be.

It’s also unnecssarily hard on driveline components.

Beyond that, the springs absorb vibrations. Not only is an unsprung clutch noisier, it also has a very short life expectancy.

The fewer cylinders you have, and the more boost you push, the more vibrations.

Any time you run too much clutch for your setup, you’re putting your tranny through hell and paying out a lot more than you need to.

The more aggressively a clutch is designed, the more compromise in driving quality (chatter, short life, poor engagement) is made.

A “puck” or “button” clutch doesn’t necessarily have to have less disk, or be star-shaped.

Because of the high clamping force of the material used in race clutches, less material is needed. Less material means less weight, and a lighter clutch will rob you of less power.

Cheap-o companies build clutches onto existing OEM-style discs. They just change the material. When you make 100,000 different applications for OEMs, spending millions on redesigning a clutch center is just not worth it.

They take a core, and rivet new material to it.

unsprung clutches are silly, but not THAT insane, you can still slip them a bit it just takes a very sensitive foot

Heh … yeah, you can slip them.

But going from buttery smooth S13/14 stock to unsprung …

Kinda like driving AEMY. But it is funny stalling it in front of a bunch of Tooners and making them think it’s Jover that can’t drive his own car :wink:

John, he is absolutely right. Puck clutches can be great. but not if your daily driving. I put alot of thought into the clutch i bought…

I drove centerforces, ACT 6 pucks, and organic discs with heavy duty pressure plates…

A clutch is something you should put alot of thought into.
what kinda power are you planning to make?
how often will you be driving the car?
do you like harsh clutches and having alot of aggrevation put onto your driveline(tranny, diff, shaft etc…)

Ill just say that after driving on several different companys and styled clutches. Im VERY happy with my ACT setup. Its great. holds 333 ft/lb which is more than enough for me. I have the XDSS pressure plate paired with their highest line of organic clutches (Performance Street Disc)

overall, never slips. no issues, and it has an incredible feel that my left foot just loves.

You cant go wrong with ACT man, I payed just about $500 for everything including pilot bearing, and release. You get what you pay for…[/b]

My 4 puck unsprung clutch is smooooth as butter. A lot of the harsh grabbing has to do with having a super stiff pressure plate, which i don’t have. :cry:

Yes Ed. The pressure plate obviously creates clamping force…
Hell. I can remember Karl at NHR telling me hes running a stock clutch on his STi engine (heavily modded) with a $1200 Dual Diaphram PP.

No slippage. but in the end…

daily driving = organic
track/some street = puck

i know i definately wouldnt want to be running a 4/6 puck with an XDSS pressure plate daily driving, it’d kill the leg, and like said before. some hella crazy stress on the driveline…

maybe u guys need to learn how to use a clutch pedal, i drive around on a 4 puck kevlar clutch right now have been for 3 years , mine isnt an on off switch, and yes it is unsprung,

You can’t call up Eurodrive and have them make you a clutch, with pressure plate, TOB etc and expect to get it for that price.

would u like me to call dave and ask him??? maybe tape the phone conversation so u can verify the price ??? i dunno maybe im wrong , maybe we just get good priceing cuz we have dealt with him since 1997.

every car i have ever owned has had a euro drive clutch in it , and never have i had any troubles with his clutches, this year im going with his dual diaphragm, 4 puck ceramic , unsprung clutch and ive driven cars with those and u can still slip the clutch, maybe i got a magic foot , i just cant stand when all u guys do is tlk like you know everything , when clearly you dont

My 4 puck unsprung clutch is smooooth as butter. A lot of the harsh grabbing has to do with having a super stiff pressure plate, which i don’t have.

the only comment here in this post that isnt retarded is this one right here from APPLESAUCE , “SUPER STIFF PRESSURE PLATE” is the reason you have no slip

I paid just under $400 CDN for my Stage 4 Disk and Stage 3 Pressure Plate and the TOB was $20.00.

People who want to complain about a stiff clutch and how their no good for the streets need to grow up or put on some muscle… yes my pedal is pretty stiff… no my leg does not get swore.

Why anyone would go aftermarket @ 325.00-$400.00 USD when they can stay local, pay canadian funds and still have their item within 3 day for under $400 from a trusted/proven source is beyond me. But again… everyone is all about their badges… YO! i got HKS shit yo, so its better then your euro-drive yo!

Hector ^ has no problems with his clutch because he is only pushing around 160 HP but he is getting some more stickers in the near future that will help him get to 170 HP :stuck_out_tongue: :stuck_out_tongue: :stuck_out_tongue:
Just joking big guy.

Guys thatnks for all the help but I think Im just going to go with somekind of a 6 puck clutch, I don’t know what brand, I guess it depends on the price, I don’t want to spend more the $400.00 on a clutch, I know there are many good clutches out there but the prices are very high this is my dream clutch but I know this will never happen http://www.coximport.com/store/NM012SD
All Im looking for is the best I can get for under $400.00 all parts included and something that can hadle some serious horse power.