So I’ve had this code pop on & off in the past year, the past 2 months it’s been staying on. I just unhook the batt. for half an hour - drove 50 miles as of today, and it popped back up. I bought a new OEM gas cap - wasn’t it. Any ideas? Someone said run with a full gas tank, but lately I’ve just filling it to half and running it low, filling it to half again. I’m trying to fix this on the cheap… My inspection is out, registration is up at the end of the month & I have to put tires on it as well.
I’d really appreciate any help. As I mentioned, I’m on a budget. I was laid off a few weeks ago.
---------- Post added at 06:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:33 PM ----------
I forgot the exact code, but I will swing by advanced auto tomorrow and have it read - but if I recall it was large evap leak.
I would start with trying shutting the light off on a full tank and see how far you can drive without it coming back on, IF you’re just looking to pass inspection.
gas cap is rarely the issue when it comes to an evap code
2)if you want to replace the correct part you’re going to have to take it and get it pressure/smoke tested.
3)vent valve is more common than purge solenoid
just did all of this on an impala today at work (the testing and vent valve).
Smoke tests are usually sub $100 with the engine light diagnostics and tax.
Then replace bad part.
Or keep throwing money at it blindly, continueing to replace parts that have nothing to do with the problem until you just happen to fall on the actual failed part like most of the weekend mechanics I know.
Or top of the tank, and keep topping it off each trip or two until all the other monitors are set, and top it off again, and rush to the inspection facility. This will keep the evap monitor from setting, and nys will let your car pass with one monitor incomplete.
Any idea how i’d go about locating someone who could do this? The shop I usually go to is just an old guy who is honest and reliable. He doesnt price gouge, but said I’d be looking at $80 for a smoke test, then labor + parts to fix whatever is wrong. If I could it taken care of for sure, for $150 that would be a life SAVER.
This is how I passed last year, sat in a lot across from the shop - unhooked the batt. for 15 minutes, drove 25 miles out, and came right back & parked it at the shop.
I filled my tank up 3/4 the way today, I will finish it off when I get paid on Tuesday. I unhooked the battery again and it’s just going to sit all weekend.
I live in Rochester, so Buffalo shops won’t do much for me - I appreciate the help though! Didn’t get to see if the light comes back on, unfortunately. The truck wasn’t turning on/ starting as of yesterday. I got a jump - drove for a while, stalled out & had to get another jump. My airbag light was going on & off randomly every few seconds, the dash lights wouldn’t even light up when connected to another running car. I ended up noticing there was so corrosion on the battery, so I thoroughly cleaned the posts/ terminals, and made sure everything was on nice & tight. This seemed to remedy those problems - no more airbag light, I’ve turned the truck on/off 4-5 times since then with no issues. I’ve got about 25 miles on it - normally the " gas cap" message pops up on the message center, but it has yet to. I’m going to try and get it to the shop at exactly 50…hope it passes with that
Get it tested before you throw a new battery in. Nissan has a tsb out for corrosion on the terminals for example so you might want to swap out the terminals if the battery tests okay.
The battery is less than a year old - but I did take it to get tested, along with the charging system. Everything checked out… it was just the bit of corrosion on the terminals - no problems since. As for the CEL - 80 miles and no CEL. Put 2 tires on it & dropped it off this evening. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon I’ll be set for the next year!