Hey, my name is Josh, I’m new to the forum so I figured I’d share my build progress with everyone. Most of you might recognize the car from Synapse Motorsport (the gray evo that was there for half a year lol) Anyway, here are some recent pics from earlier today. Mods are listed below the pictures.
MODS:
SBR 2.1l Motor
Synapse Motorsport custom GT35r turbokit with TiAL Turbine Housing
TRE Stage II 5spd Tranny
AMS 1000cc injectors
AEM EMS + Driver Box + UEGO + Boost control
SMC v2 Alky kit
Exedy Twin Disk HD
HKS 280’s
Nisel Intercooler + mini battery
Sun auto Ignition
Jun BL exhaust
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
Megan Racing Street Coilovers
Car puts out around 550whp, hoping for 600whp+ when I go to get retuned at the end of this month.
Sorry no graph, the cops shut down my dyno session when i was at The Shop in CT because of noise complaints. I’ll have a graph as soon as I get retuned at moon performance later this month.
Wondered where you disappeared to after Synapse finished the car.
You’ll enjoy the drive and company @ Moon regardless. Every Evo I’ve built say but one(justins first E8) has gone to Moon for the tunes because Seth is great and J-Mcgrath knows how to tune these cars very well.
Looks solid though.
One word of advice if anything…I would put a cover back over those timing gears. Unless you deleted the balance shafts in the new motor it’s risky to run this motor open as the balance shaft belt is very small and very susceptible to debris induced damaged that can snap the belt, which most cases results in a jammed/slipped timing belt and major head damage. Common 4G63 woe is that damn balance shaft belt and the malice it can cause at random. Roadways up here in the NE are littered with small hard debris that can make it’s way up there, undertray or not.
Yeah, I tried to fit the OE timing belt back on but it doesn’t fit with the aftermarket camgears. I’m going to try and get an aftermarket cover that has slightly more clearance to adjust for the gears. I’m looking foward to bringing my car to Seth, I’ve spoken with him numorous times on the phone about getting my car tuned and he seems very confident in his work.
not sure, it was whatever flange Synapse used. My hood vent does sit right above the exhaust manifold and water gets onto it pretty easily, not sure if that has anything to do with it or not.
Yea the oem cover doesn’t fit with the detents that normal fit inside the inner diameter of the stock gears. there is a company(forget the name) that makes a trick polycarbonate clear cover that clears the aftermarket gears. I usually cut out the stock cover center detents and then bond a piece of .060 aluminum to the outside face and bevel it in.
I usually have an extra cover or two here for just this but I don’t at the moment. I’d make you up one and drop it off to Seth so you’d have it for the tune if I did.
There’s a small place in my heart Evo’s, along side all the Porsches and kit cars :sniff sniff: :lol I just love them!
If they used 304 stainless it can do that. Welding 304, and even some 321 grade, flanges without a welding chamber will result in carbon precipitates coming to the surface and thus rust will occur. Most shops don’t have welding chambers as they’re expensive. I have a small one for welding, but only use it when welding stuff like titanium or inconel, or if building some extremely expensive part. Expensive as it eats alot of cubit feet of shielding gas and the helium mix I use is not cheap by any means. Can happen as well if too much heat is used in the weld, but can also just happen from extreme heat cycles as well in certain instances just from use. Not much you can really do about it without jacking up the cost of the manifold due to welding procedures, or by switching to 321 and welding cooler.
Yeah, it makes sense. No need for the extra expenses, I can deal with some rust lol. PM me about a price for that cam cover if I had you fab me one up.
Correct. Stainless steel has a higher thermal expansion rate than that of mild or alloyed steel and pending on header layout MS can reduce stress on the primaries and header bolts due heat cycling. The way around it is to either run substantially thick 1/2" machined 321 flanges(post welding machining + cost prohibitive), or run individual flanges at each port(not always feasible or possible on every setup). Most cases I’ll try to run individual flanges, CNC relieved flanges thereafter to avoid expansion stresses from building up unequally. Neither is cheap as I have to CAD and CNC those flanges per car. Not feasible for production manifold stuff, which seems to be what you guys do alot of. Just about all my manifolds are built per setup and tuned per motor used adn thus an extra $400 for flanges isn’t much of a dent in the grand scheme of things. aside from that, MS prevails! :lol
Those who have manifolds with MS flanges can prevent the rust a bit by using PPG 579. It’s mild phosphoric acid cleaning solution. Spray on the flange 100% concentrate, soak, scrub in with red scuffy to remove rust. Rinse with fresh 579 and repeat until flange is clean. Allow to dry. Reinstall and immediately heat cycle. This will darken the flange to a dull gray black, but will offer a degree of rust protection in the pores of the material for some time. Not permanent, but keeps the major corrosion at bay. Either that or just ceramic coat the fucker(best option IMO) :thumb
I love coated stuff. We send some parts out but not as often as i’d like. The header on my car is coated and looks like a million bucks. Works good too.
