air / fuel ratio would wonder all over the place during idle or part throttle
car had the following codes:
secondaries controler
front back lean, EEC @ rich adaptive limit (part throttle)
front back lean, EEC @ rich adaptive limit (part throttle)
after some fiddeling, and realizing that unplugging the maf only changed idle by a VERY slight amount, we decided to swap the maf, seeing as the maf had to be swapped anyways (the 80 maxes easily)
after some crafty mods, the 80mm maf was out, and the 90mm maf was in
i got on the laptop, and uploaded the 90mm map to the tweecer
now for the 80mm maf, all i had to do to get it to run right was change injector sizes, change target AFR, and scale the entire maf chart 20% leaner
well, the 90mm maf table shows flow being 2100 kg/hr @ 5 volts
i had its adjusted all the way down to 200kg/hr @ 5 volts … meaning i pulled out over 90% of the fuel … and i was still able to light the exhaust fumes on fire !!!
we have to:
pull / inspect / clean all the plugs
pull / inspect / clean all 3 o2 sensors
pull / clean the maf
pull the bumper and inspect the intercooler plumbing (possibly do a pressure test)
inspect the car for any sensor problems (coolant sensor, E.C.T., wideband, narrowband ect)
check for any vac leaks
verify fuel pump voltage (pump is accessable thru the interior)
verify fuel pressure & that the car has adaquate fuel return (damaged return line?)
verify fuel FLOW using a gas can and stop watch
whos game ? lol
ill probably be working on the car around noon
uh, i highly doubt Mike would take the car as is to tune it, the car has demonstrated that even drastic measures wont make it run correctly. the problem started like someone flicked a switch, showing me that its a failre of some sort. we need to find that problem before tuning is possible
it is a lightning maf, the previous owner maxed it and thats why it was sold (i know that for a fact)
we tried, playing with the tweecer seamed to make it run worse, indicating to me that the attempts to reseat it were actualy giving it a bad connecton …
Seriously, get it tuned on the dyno, if you need a tuner I have a guy that tunes tbird supercoupes, and will put a real safe tune on it for you.
You really have to have it part throttle tuned, all the way through the power band. You need a wideband, and you need to get it on a dyno to see whats up.
he HAVE a wideband, the car previously rant 14.7:1 at idle and all the way till boost hit
as soon as 1 pound of boost was sen, that car switched to 12.5:1 afr and held it rock solid all the way to redline
i had it driveable
i will have it driveable b4 it goes in for dyno tuning
inn-tune will be doing the tune
car wont be tuned till spring, because its getting more mods which will make the tune worthless
hmmm. sounds like something o2 sensor related. does this car have gutted cats? if not it will soon running that rich lol. its probably an 02 thing because it sounds like the car thinks its lean and throwing crazy rich. throw that 90% fuel back in…FOR NOW, and clean the 02 sensors. then see if anything changes. are you able to shut adaptive learning off? it sounds like its fighting you when your trying to adjust a/f ratio.
adaptive learning is off (min & max values are swapped)
o2’s were cleaned, but they will be replaced very soon, as they could be burned up and borderline on dead (bad enough to ruin the tune, but not bad enough to throw a code)
i might just go and reinstall teh stock injectors, raisl and maf, and see if it runs like that, becuase the will eliminate the tune as the problem
right now the car doesnt even start, im pretty sure the spark plugs are telling me to gtfo
i was thinking maybe it was the 02’s, but considering it wont even start right now, im leaning away from that idea, because the SHO runs open loop on startup, meaning its ignoring them during cranking. if they were bad, it wouldnt effect the car till about when it kicks into a low idle