Got tossed the keys to this bike a little over a week ago and its going from almost full dress to naked by the time its done
Intended Mod list:
Strip all fairings and install round headlight
One up seat w/ custom rear fairing
aluminum trim panels over the battery / ecu area
Modified handle bars more in line w/ the euro bars
Lowered 3/4" (more if i can manage)
relocated ignition switch (airbox ?)
Custom saddle bag mounts for when i actually have to haul something
Maybe custom rear sets and a muffler swap
Required repairs:
gauge cluster lens replacement
misc engine seals (mostly oil pan)
rebuild or replace front forks
new rear shock
full prevent. maint. chassis & drive line lube
replace clutch cable
oil throttle cable
repair / replace gear indicator switch.
Final color: maybe the original grape, maybe titanium, no idea yet.
10 min after it arrived @ the shop
the next day (only spent a little while messing w/ it)
that orange one is the only one that looks any good. the others seem to have ignored pretty major details such as the original frame having absolutely no flow with the new seat, and even then the seats they chose don’t fit the bike. copy the orange one for sure
also, rebuild the forks. it’s incredibly easy, just look up a youtube video on your specific model, there’s bound to be a how-to.
Yea, the B&W picture the tail is like a wasps ass up in the air, the back and gold checkered bike owner was to pussy to cut his frame, but the orange bike the tail works w/ the tank recesses
Ive got an idea for the tail, just have to make some JY runs till i find the panels I need. should flow well w/ the tank design.
Apparently the front forks are a known problem and using parts off the later R series is an upgrade. (I’m working off my shit memory at this point so dont quote me) But I’m def not afraid to rebuild some bike struts.
had a few spare minutes today, pulled off the remainder of the fairings. Horns are still on the HL bracket (need to disassemble some wiring to get the bracket off)
Started digging into the bike deeper last week. Should have a headlight coming at some point. Been calling around trying to find the pieces i need for the rear fairing. Have to fix a coolant leak, a bad cooling fan, and possibly some bad intake boots.
Need to make some pieces so i can lower the gauge cluster way down also
ignition has a mile of extra wire, so Im moving it to the side of the bike w/ a custom bracket
so i had the tank off for like a week. both for the sake of pulling the front light wiring and running the clutch cable. you wouldnt beleive how many people thought i had ruined the bike or that id never get it back together.
so today i put the clutch cable in it and put the tank back on. made it do this again:
I’d lose the gauge cluster entirely. Unless it’s needed to run the bike there is no reason to have a speedo or tach or indicators or any of that bullshit.
I hate that tail. Its round and its tiny, 2 things the bike is not. Already have a plan for the tail, just gotta find the right stuff to do it w/ (cough-e36-cough)
The bike wont start w/o the cluster connected , and I hate wiring WAY more then I hate the way the cluster looks so Im not about to start rewiring shit. I’m just gonna slide the cluster down about 2" and that should be good enough.
I go west seneca to the city of tonawanda every day, either via the 190 or 290, so theres not much thats out of my way on a day to day basis. Today it took me 10 extra minutes to hit up Ferry on the way to work :shrug:
The gauges on every bike look so bad. You know what specifically causes it not to start?
Second, for the balls I’d say mcmaster. If you order them today you will have them tomorrow.
Side note, ball bearings are made from hardened steel. If you’re trying to tap them or otherwise modify them for something fancy, you’re in for trouble…
Additionally, depending on what you are using them for, the chances of a local store knowing any legitimate specs about the bearings are slim to none. I can’t imagine the guy across the counter going knowing any of this:
Hardness: Rockwell C60-C67
Yield Strength: 295,000 psi
Quenched and tempered
Meet ASTM A295.
Diameter tolerance is ±0.005"
Sphericity is 0.001"
