lol. my thoughts exactly
You can safely run a 120 shot on a stock head and bottom end SRT-4, as long as the whp does not exceed 525. Any shot above 50, you should use a direct port. Any shot above a 75 requires direct port. Obviously if you are getting detonation or your EGT’s are too high, you’ll kill the engine or turbo. It’s very important that the N2O is tuned correctly and not just slapped in with the jets they say to use. Every car is different. I bought the scan gauge to monitor detonation and EGT’s. Still waiting to find a deal on a wideband.
The scan gauge has a “calculated egt”… I wouldn’t put too much trust in that reading!!! Wideband is the cats ass!!! That was the first thing I did on my srt, a wideband and an agp wastegate.
The scan gauge has 2 analog input to connect extra sensors, like a real EGT probe. 
Installation plans for this weekend:
Aeromotive Fuel Pressure Regulator
Walbro 255lph In-Tank Pump
Fuel Pump Rewire with 10awg
AGP Turbo Return Line
Fuel Delivery Line Bottle Neck Fix
Nitrous Express Direct Port Wet Kit
Nitrous Express Purge Kit
Nitrous Express Remote Bottle Opener
Running Wire & Connecting Switch for Bottle Warmer
I Still Need:
Bottle Warmer
3" Turbo-Back Exhaust
2 1/16 Electric N2O Pressure Gauge
15x7 or 8 5x100 +35 Wheels for Slicks
Let me know if you come across any deals!
you forgot clutch…
Jim, where did ya pick up the N2o kit from?? Im also in the market…
How can you go wrong with buying my kit? Nothing is cheaper…especially WITH a bottle heater and blanket.
Oh yea forgot you still had yours fs
I bought it from SRTForums… Everything is brand new and I saved myself about $500 off retail.
Oh yeah… there goes another $500… :bh:
or 750-1000. exhaust 1st?
No, clutch is costing me 4 and change + S&H. Cost on aftermarket parts FTMFW
what brand? stage??
There’s a few different brands and models that I can get for around the same price. I’m doing research on them now and asking people that own them how they feel about it. Getting specifics as to how far the clutch needs to travel from just making friction to reaching full engagement. One of my biggest complaints with the clutch in my car now is the fact that I can’t let it out fast enough. The pedal is so soft that it doesn’t spring out hard and it slips a little because I can’t move my fat leg fast enough. I think I’m leaning twords a SPEC Stage 3+ because if it’s cost to performance ratio. I could care less about chatter, vibrations, or it being streetable. I want something that is going to hold up because I put my clutches through beatings. I no-lift the car at the track, and spraying this N2O on the car is going to require something beefy. 2nd gear dumps and no-lifts into 3rd doing a burnout is an almost daily occurrance with my car. My clutches and tires hate life.
and alot of other parts. lol. i have the SBC stage 5. its modual. not my fave but it gets the job done, and feels like stock
Yeah, I have heard good and bad things about that clutch. I definately want something with a much faster engagement and more of a firm pedal feel over stock. I need to be able to snap it out and have it there 100% almost instantly.
i seriously wouldnt worry about that. its ALL there. it has made countless dyno pulls and i dont know how mant real world pulls at over 400hp and hasnt flinched.
It’s not the pulls I’m worried about, it’s launching the car at 15psi of boost on the 2-step and spraying a 100 shot instantly after the clutch comes out and 2-step shuts down, with 24.5/8.5 slicks. I actually think I may burn up the slicks off the line. I’m not gonna be happy if I have to go to 26" tall… I dont want to spend a grand on coil overs just to fit them.
The neon got some 10" wide flat black rally stripes today. I also mounted the bottle. Pics tomorrow.