im trying to do some research on these different senarios in order to not get myself into a problem i nor someone else wants to handle.
can i have the link to hotrodkid’s page please
i dont think you would have a problem, plenty of people have taken the stock driveline to those power levels.
but beat on it enough, and i’m sure something will let go eventually
:picard:
:search:
Threads started by HotRodKid, Search term “240”.
But since you said please: http://nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32025&highlight=240
so what ever happened to that project???
im putting the 8.8 in teh car because
the stock rear suspension is battered
the stock suspension is rusted to shit
the stock k member is posibly bent
the brakes are toast
theres a toasted wheel brearing
rear struts are insanely priced because of all the 240 humpers that want to go drift
so theres a shit suspension in the driveway, and a perfect one in the garage (which has less then like 200 miles on a full rebuild, including all the brakes
i think i have the fab work pretty well covered, considering i work for a heavy steel fab shop in the area … press brakes, iron worker, drill presses, hole wizards, all sorts of great stuff at my disposal
hell, right now im drawing up some stuff in CAD which i need for 240 project, so i can tack it onto an order for my side biz …
hell, ive even got a set of pinch weld clamp jack stands so i can set the car up in the driveway perfectly level while i gut out all the old frame and suspension and start from scratch … and someplace around here ive got a basic 10 point cage layed out in cad …
so basically if everything is good and im comfortable with the car, (i plan on putting xxxx into suspension upgrades) i should just install a limited-slip and call it a day?
for sure. the bottom line is one wheel peel sucks
aftermarket diffs will be $700+… then you have to get a competent guy to put it in…
VLSD will hold 400hp + without issue… and it’s a direct bolt in… takes an hour maybe and the only reason it takes that long is because of where it is.
if you have a lift you can drop and pop in 45 minutes.
well i looked up on a lot of fourms and basically everyone said Clutch>HLSD>VLSF>Welded… i think i might look into spending the extra money… and i do have access to a mechanic who can do it and a lift
and then… which is better 1.5 way or 2 way?
i still don’t see why your going that route for what your gonna use the car for…
so you just suggest getting the vlsd?
i just heard the clutch would hold up better and was all around better for autox/drag/drift(not proffesionally)/street
ok seriusly vlsd is a limited slip but a slow reacting one, where as if u were to get a clutch type its going to lock alot quicker than the vlsd.
and i wouldnt ever put a solid axle in A 240 unless u were plaing on doing strictly drags and were puttin over like 1000 wheels horse power, because i know for a fact there are at least to companys that offer 1000hp axle kits. try the drive shaft shop and rbperformance i think are the 2 companys.
and is far as ur 1 way and 2 way limited slip i could explain but i dont feel like it and kaaz can do it much better so here is a link http://www.kaazusa.com/introductionToLSD/introduction_To_LSD.htm
http://www.mazworx.com/store/?event=displayProduct&product=103
totaly beats just putting a solid axle in the car :fail:
False, it means plenty. So does Hemi? I hate it when non-americans that own jap scrap talk about Positraction…lol…
Positraction is a GM trademark. It was so popular it basically became the “Kleenex” of limited slips. Mopar units were Sure-Grips, and Ford had the Traction Lok (in conjunction with the 9" rear end, probably the best factory solid rear out there).