I was offered an interesting deal on an EVO with a “blown motor.” Long story short, this guy did something bad and had to swap a motor. Shortly after installing motor #2 it “blowed up.” When I asked as to “how blowed up it was” I was told that it was siezed. The mechanic said that there was some kind of oiling failure and the engine was shot. Mechanic then told me about how the engines in these cars sell for $9000 and that rather than put another engine in, the owner would rather sell it as it sits for a decent discount. There was a Greddy timer on the column so I’m guessing its not just an oiling failure.
So, where should I start looking for an EVO compatible 4g63 and is there anything I should be aware of before further contemplating this deal? (no DSM jokes plz)
NOTE I live outside Raleigh NC if this story sounds familiar to anyone on EVO forums, let me know.
Well you could buy a built 4g63, or even a 4g64, You can find a block or entire motor for alot cheaper than at IMHO. Here are some options from Slow Boy Racing:
Brand Spanking New Shortblock, fresh out of the crate from across the big water!
Free shipping does not apply for this product! Your down payment for the motor is enough to get it started, but you will be contacted about the price for shipping, normally $250. Your motor will not be shipped until the balance is paid.
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This is not a refurbished unit, this is brand new Evo 8 4G63 short block from Mitsubishi. Used blocks are extremely hard to find for such a new motor in the States; this is a great way to start that monster engine build. Comes complete, fully assembled.
The 2.1L motors were designed for the guys that never wanted to step up from a 2.0L because they liked that top end power over 8,000 rpms. This is a great motor that we are fully comfortable running up and above 10,000 rpms! This motor is very trick so do not expect to be able to order it from just anywhere!
Free shipping does not apply for this product! Your down payment for the motor is enough to get it started, but you will be contacted about the price for shipping, normally $250. Your motor will not be shipped until the balance is paid.
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Stage III 2.1L 4G64
• Manley/SBR I-Beam Long Rods
• Wiseco 4G64 Forged 9.0:1 Stroker Pistons
• Fully Balanced Crank STANDARD, Lightened and High Speed Balanced Crank OPTIONAL
• ARP Rod Bolts
• Clevite 77 Main Bearings
• Clevite 77 Rod Bearings
• 4G64 2.4L Block, 4G63 Crankshaft
• Block Surfaces Are Fully Decked
• 800 whp
What makes a long rod work? There are many advantages to stepping up to a long rod motor over stock or certain types of strokers. A longer rod actually reduces rod angle overall so when measured in degrees, less are observed which reduces stress from vertical and horizontal impulses. During the firing portion of the stroke, the angle of longer rod is lessened over the standard length rod. Longer rods result in slower piston speed at the top and bottom of the stroke reducing bearing wear and wrist pin stress throughout the stroke. Nevertheless, lower piston speed at the bottom of the stroke is where forced induction motors benefit the most in that the ports have more time to be crammed full of pressured air over the same port filling time when compared to a standard length rod motor.
$9000 would be the price for all the worl at a mitsu dealer most likely, i know one of the local rsx’s had a engine job done under warranty after trhe rods left the block, and thats what that job cost
if the price as it sits is vehical resale price - $10,000, then you have 10g to play with before you start to loose money on the deal
Judging by the use of the English language, I would pass, if the engine has been “blowed up” who knows what else is on the way to being blowed up.
If it sounds too good to be true it is.
I can build an EVO engine from oil pan to valve cover that will support 10,000 RPM and 7-800 whp for about 6k in parts, machine work and labor (head work ,blueprinting, and assembly)
If this weren’t selling for well under 10G I would run away. That’s why I was more interested in an entire assembly instead of a shortblock. While a 2.4 w/ forged guts spooling a Holset sounds cool, I’d be more into just putting humpty dumpty back together again. This would have to be a daily for a while and then I’d sell it. So this would have to be mild.
Seeing as this one had oil problems, I’m figuring the turbo is toast. I’m just guessing that the mitsu turbo with reverse rotation is going to be pricey. What about a garrett flanged log manifold and clearance for other turbos.
I dunno, I would want to take a REAL close look at it. If the shell is in really good shape, and all the driveline is shot, then you should have an asking price as if NONE of the driveline is actually there. As long as the shell is good, then it really would be a great way to start, just pull EVERYTHING in the driveline out, and replace with what you want.
Personally, I would think that it’s worth a look, just to see:
If the price is fair for ONLY a shell
Condition of the SHELL, nothing else.
Remember, everything is AT LEAST worthy of looking at, not everything is worthy of buying. I wouldn’t use an excuse of his Grammer for not wanting to take at least another step, because if that was the case, very rarily would anything ever sell over the internet because 99.9% of people on the internet can’t sphell anyting wright.