I ride a 1998 Honda CBR 600. I’m debating some stuff in the near future here.
First, my chain is worn and needs replacing pretty quick. I can buy a new OEM chain and have it installed for a little over $100.
However, I’m sure that before the end of this summer, I’m going to want a little more zip out of the bike. I couldn’t care less about top end speeds as I don’t really like going over 85 mph or so. I do love accelerating on it though. I’ve been reading up on the 520 conversion. What are the thoughts you guys have on that? Worth it? Can you explain in detail what it does that doesn’t sound like a sales pitch? All I’ve gathered is it increases the longevity of the chain if you buy the corresponding sprockets. What does the “520” reference? If I’m researching correctly, a 525 is what came on the bike? Does the brand matter? DID, RK, EK, Regina, etc?
Second, if the 520 conversion is worth it, I have to get new sprockets I think. The bike came with a 15/43 setup. If I do this conversion, and I go to a 14/45 (-1/+2), will it be subtle differences like slightly better acceleration and a little more lift in the front (i would like that), or is the thing going to flip over on me when i hit the gas (i would not like that)?
I appreciate in advance your advice on this. Sorry for so many questions, but I’m new to all this, and don’t want to fuck it up.
520 is how wide the chain is im pretty sure…ive never heard of changing it and getting any gains possibly someone else can help with that. brand is usually just personal preference just stay away from cheap roller chains either get a o,x,xw ring chain and take good care of it.
i don’t see how there could be a performance gain, even though some sites claim that there are. all i can see is longevity being better due to it being a “beefier” chain. if my bike came with a 525, wouldn’t a 520 be less of a chain? or am i reading this all wrong?
520 refers to the sprocket/chain thickness. with a thinner chain/sprocket combo, there will be less rotating mass, and in most cases you will see a small gain in power.
But when you gear it differently, i.e. -1 in the front and +2 in the back, the bike accelerates quite a bit faster and takes away from the top speed. (which you should know) this is why stunters go up alot in the rear, for low end power.
brand will make a difference, stick with the big guys and you shouldn’t have a problem. If you really need to replace the chain, sprockets don’t add much to the cost, so you might as well make a difference on the bike. BUT if you get a 520 chain, you need 520 sprockets. and vice versa.
what kind fo chain does the bike currently have? 525? im pretty sure thats it. anyways, going down to a 520 is fine on a 600, on liter bikes usually not such a good idea since the strength of the chain is usually lower. but like i said, youll be fine.
x or xw is def the way you want to go, they will last much longer than o-ring chains. rk is what i usually sold the most of when i worked at this one bike shop.
as far as sprockets go, get steel, all around. your front will most def be steel, the rear you will probably have to search for steel as aluminum will be everywhere. the weight difference is not going to affect a street bike and the aluminum sprockets get torn up very fast. check forums to see what ppl say with gearing with your particular bike. rule of thumbs is 1 down in the front is the equivelant of 3 up in the back. so its like your going 5 up in the back, will def still be ridable but like i said, do some reseach on ur specific bike.
oooh, and get a rivet master link, not the clips type, those are dangerous.
if you dead set on doing it yourself and you cant get the tool to rivet the link, buy a snap link, put it on, ride it to a shop and give them the rivet master link and have them do it
thats about it, all of this i picked up from working at a shop for a while just after i moved out here
the most you will really notice is wear, i guess the idea the 520 is less rotating mass therefore faster but its probably minimal imo i could be wrong. If you sprockets are still good id stick with the 525 if thats what it came with.
Guess I’ll just add to NOT buy sprockets with evenly matched teeth. For instance don’t buy a 15 with a 45 rear or a 16 with a 48 rear. I forgot exactly what this is called, there is a name for it, but it will increase wear ALOT.
oh jesus this is getting complicated. i’m not going to do the work myself. i’ll have a shop do it.
it just occurred to me…if i do change all this stuff, it will affect the RPM’s because of the gearing. i’m assuming it will fuck up my speedo too? is there a way to correct it?
i’m starting to think just keep the OEM setup and just get a new chain for now.
Depending on the miles you should also replace the sprockets.
Your speedo depends on where the pickup is. I forgot where it is on that bike. If it’s the front wheel you are lucky, if not you can get a speedohealer.
they are x-ring chains that i was looking at from DID.
they are definitely steel sprockets. buying an aluminum one for my purposes makes no sense. lol.
i don’t think the pickup is on the front wheel. however, it would be great if it was. it looks like i’ll have to add a speedo healer to my list.
i’ve spent my entire evening drinking beer and reading up on this. i’m pretty sure i’m just going to replace the chain and call it a day for now. i’m not even sure i’m keeping this bike. if i do keep it, this may be a project for winter. it’s looking like a 300 dollar investment at minimum right now before i pay labor. i’m guessing 500 dollars total. that’s more than i really want to spend on a bike i may not be keeping.
