You won’t be able to focus unless you pick option 2, you know it’s the right thing to do, but it’s one of those things that sucks until you just do it and life moves forward.
For real a 5.3 with harness and ecu is ~1k
Not with a t56 behind it. I won’t settle for an auto trans. If I wanted an auto is I would lease new again.
That and it’s so easy to put the 4.6 on the crown Vic suspension. What is save in wiring on an LSx I’d pay for in fab and reinventing the wheel.
I Might just bite the bullet and go option 2, after all I want to keep this truck and legitimately daily drive it and haul shit long distance. Piece of mind can be priceless
Could’ve always gone the cheap route and used an NV-series manual trans…
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Doesn’t look too bad:
no offense but I already have an engine and trans sitting here that I paid $800 for, why would I spend a $1k on a different engine with harness and ecu, then still need to get a trans (even if it’s an NV 5-spd) when I can spend $1000 and get what I have in the truck and working? I also don’t want solid engine mounts, this truck is going to be driven every day, and being able to swap out parts with stuff I can but at advance/autozone/napa is a huge benefit.
Not a chance id pay 1k for a harness is why I suggested an alternative. Unless it was coming attached to a stand alone ecu.
So if we are still picking options. Whichever one = repairing the current harness.
Fixing the current harness still doesn’t solve the issue with not having the PATS module and needing the original to match the ECU. He may be able to buy a new PATS module and key, but then the ECU needs to be programmed for it.
What about repairing the current harness and then sending the ECM to Ron Francis to have the PATS deleted? ECM reprogram is $350, https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FORD+ECM+PROG
yeah. fuck PATS. so, I can go MS “standalone” with harness for about $750. By with harness, I mean I take what I have and chop it up to make a harness to plug into the MSII V.3 ecu. If I can buy a pre-assembled MS from DIYautotune with a pinout diagram and the ECU pigtail/plug…I might just do that. I’m so mad about this because the whole point of purchasing the drivetrain I did was because I thought I was getting everything I needed to just drop this thing in the truck and turn the key.
With megasquirt, how does it work to get your gauge cluster working?
it doesn’t. the truck has a mechanical cluster, I’ll just run mechanical gauges.
I think in this case Id go 1 or 2, especially if you’re looking for long term reliability, drivability, and MPG. Going to MS is a huge learning curve and then you’ll need a tune, even for the stock motor which adds more cost.
I dont see why you couldnt repair the current harness (unless a lot is missing, not just cut), get a PATS module and key and move along.
@pirite did find out that for $55 he can download the pats program at work and set it up with the ecu, key, and a module. I have no idea how or where to get a 98 mustang gt pats module though.
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Another option might be to run a pre-96 crown Vic harness and ecu because they don’t have PATS.
I would make sure you research megasquirt before you go all in I know people run it on LSx drag swaps but when it comes to drive ability/IAC people always suggest the stock PCM.
Not saying that I agree with them or its the case with ford stuff I would just do a fair amount of research first.
there are a 96 and 97 mustang at m and m. cant remember if they are a v6 or v8 though
I was there saturday, both were v6 auto
Option #4 , bug the crap out of the guy for the key that he keeps being too lazy too send you since you found you have the mustang PATS box today
Then make it awd.
hahaha. yeah, I sent him another message this morning…so far no response. I wonder if the code on the PATS module paired with the ECU code could be used for a locksmith to program a key…Luke says he can do the key programming for $55 but I might have to be able to turn the key to the on position with everything hooked up, which means waiting until I have everything together and towing it to his work.
I still don’t understand why you don’t repair the harness yourself and pay $350 to get the PATS delete done. I am sure that members here like Luke L would help you on harness repair. There is probably a bunch of crap that you can delete from the current harness. Repair the breaks correctly, re-loom it and move on.