This is NOT my car, I am cross posting this for a fellow member on another forum.
His contact info is within the ad.
The time has come for me to sell my CRX. The simple answer to why I am selling the car without getting into a long drawn out story is that I have purchased another car and now need to sell this for both the space, and money.
I purchased this car back in April of 2008, to use as my daily driver. It was bone stock but some what quickly (and originally un-planned) was built into a STS competitive car. So anything mentioned below was done since I bought the car.
Since owning the car I have daily driven it and put about ~15k on it. I’ve done every bit of 30-40 autocrosses with this thing. Including the 2009 SCCA National Tour at Seneca Army Depot where I placed 2nd in STS and the 2009 NEDiv at Devens where my co-driver (who never drove the car prior) took 3rd in STS. If driven properly this car can win!
Onto the important bits:
1991 Honda CRX Si
Clean title (have a CarFax printout)
~205k on the chassis
~40k original miles on replaced engine
Original Si transmission (no grinds)
Engine:
AEM Cold Air Intake (Silver)
Exedy OEM Clutch
NGK Spark Plug Wires
NGK V-Power Spark Plugs (+4 spares)
Odyssey PC680 Battery (Some re-badged one)
OEM Cap, Rotor
OEM Timing Belt, Tensioner
Password:JDM Battery Box
RedShift Tuned ECU (2 chips/different rev limits)
Resurfaced OEM Flywheel
Unorthodox Racing Underdrive Crank Pulley (For 2 belts, but AC is removed).
Exhaust:
DC Sports 4-2-1 Header (Ceramic Coated)
Thermal R&D Cat-Back Exhaust (dent in the bottom of the muffler)
Walker OEM Replacement Cat
Suspension:
Koni Yellows with Ground Control coilover sleeves
Eibach 400# front, Eibach 550# rear
GC extended Top Hats on the front.
CRX Hf front sway bar
ST rear sway bar
Ingall Rear Upper Control Arms
Prothane Bushings
Mugen Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
OEM Rear Wheel Bearing/Hubs
Brakes:
New Front Remain Calipers
- All 4 calipers were than cleaned and painted with G2 paint
OEM Replacement Front and Rear Rotors
Hawk HP+ Pads Front and Rear
Russel SS Brake Lines
Valvoline Synthetic Brake Fluid
Wheels & Tires:
Enkei RPF1 – 15x7 +38 with 205/50/15 Bridgestone RE-11
^ Tires are from last year, were full tread and still doing fine.
OEM '91 Si Wheels – 14x5.5 with 195/60/14 General Altimax Tires
^ Cleaned and repainted silver. No center caps.
Body & Exterior:
JDMShit J’s Racing Replica Lip
OEM EDM Flush Mount Spoiler
OEM JDM Side Marker Lights
Fresh new paint job using Omni paint with some shade of Rio Red (or so I am told).
Interior:
Complete Si interior, including the vert divider and cargo cover (split).
Sparco Steering Wheel Hub Adapter with Some no-name steering wheel
^ I had a Sparco and spacer but I am putting those in my next car.
Spearco Sprint seats on WeaponR seat brackets
^ Driver side bracket was modified as I felt it wasn’t pointing straight. Seats are older used items I picked up but they do their job. Driver side has a Sparco slider, and the passenger has a no-name slider that was laying around, but I do not have the wire to connect the two sides to release it. It was originally bolted solid.
M&R Camlock 5 Point Harness on Driver’s side
^ Sub-belt never used or installed. Shoulder belts are not “properly” installed. They simply go over your sholder, through the seat and down between the rear storage box and vert divider (without any modification to either). They are then bolted to the floor with bolts and washers.
Kenwood Headunit (+ iPod adapter)
Pioneer Front Speakers, some single rear speaker (Driver side)
Here is how it looks as of 4/16/2010 after just washing it:
All of the above pictures and a slew of additional larger ones can be found here: http://picasaweb.google.com/ktulay/CRX#
I basically went through my computer and any picture related to the car was dumped into one folder and uploaded. You’ll see the car from when it was bone stock to various stages of work being performed. I am not hiding anything! I have a bunch of additional autocross pictures if you’d care for those.
Here are some videos from autocross events: http://www.youtube.com/user/Kup0p
Extra Items!:
Original D16A6, complete.
^ I reused the harness, flywheel, starter and transmission. Everything else was on the other motor and so remains on this one. It has slightly over 200k and runs fine but not as strong as the other. It did not use any oil. The plan was to rebuild this and then swap it back into the car and have the other as my spare.
D16A6 head (another one besides what is on the original engine), complete. Bought in “good condition” but I never used it.
Si ECU, should be “virgin”. Got this from a friend and it just sits on the rack. Never tried to use it.
Prothane Front Sway Bar End Links
^ Bought a second kit as one of the original bushings in the master kit fell apart. I only used 1 of the bushings out of the kit and the rest remains.
DLAA Yellow Fog Lights (similar to JDM)
^ Not Installed, just purchased off of eBay a few weeks ago.
OEM Battery Tray
OEM Exhaust Manifold and “down pipe”. I think I have two manifolds.
Original Front Brake Calipers, one was sticking and I never sent them in as cores.
Misc items from building the car. Some still brand new from Honda, others that were extras or taken off of the car. Basically whatever I find that is Honda related is included.
Now the boring details; Body work, paint, and whatever else I feel should be mentioned:
The car was a bucket when I got it … We did all of the body work on the car (more so my Dad who used to do it, and now just on the side or even as a hobby). Both doors were replaced, rear quarters were trimmed of their rust and new pieces made and welded in. Lower/Rear rockers got the same treatment.
There is a brand new OEM sunroof panel, molding, and the one set of brackets on the panel. The windshield was cut out to be painted and a brand new one was installed. Rear quarter panel windows were also cut out before painted and glued back in afterwards without the trim (the hole for the clip was welded shut).
I grinded the roof seams that were cracked and put new material in but it cracked again. I just recently put some clear silicone over the passenger side. Driver side has a crack but I am not sure if it is allowing water in. I haven’t had the car out in rain or washed it since I put the silicone on but it was getting some water inside. I believe the rear wiper is leaking also. The rear washer squirter was removed before paint and then reinstalled with silicone.
MANY of the various clips and brackets for the car were replaced either from a junk yard or even brand new from Honda; and they are not cheap. Some clips sell for several dollars EACH.
The actual rear bumper was shot and falling to pieces. We found another and made one good one out of the two. I cleaned the very rear of the body up, as well as the wheel wells and sprayed them with undercoating. There is also some brush on black rustoliem in the wheel wheels and such. Nearly all of the suspension bits were cleaned and repainted while doing the bushings and other work.
The car was painted in our garage by a friend who works at a body shop. The deal started going sour towards the end and it was never fully wet sanded and buffed. It could use a touch up.
I wasn’t looking to make a show car out of this, so you will find minor flaws in the body work, or paint. There are some chips here or there, scratch, or cone scuffs, and even a dent or minor wave from the body work. Regardless of how good the car looked when it was painted I was going to go out and drive it the same way at the autocross events.
All of the black on the outside (minus mirrors) were painted with DupliColor Trim Paint out of a spray can. The black on the bumpers were done after the car was painted red. I did this so that if it ever got so bad from cones that I could easily repaint the lower portion of the car again.
The later half of the body work, and build of the car can be found here: Too much work... Almost done... | Honda CRX Forum
Issues:
The body work is not show room quality. We did the work ourself so it wasn’t professionally done. It has some flaws and such, but I was building the car to be USED so it was only a matter of time until scratches and such started to show up, not that it is bad but you will find a few.
The threaded stud on the driver side molding broke, so tape is holding the last bit of it. I think my Dad epoxed one on the passenger side and it is holding. Should be able to do this to the driver side, or even replace the molding.
The lower door trim is not installed. The driver side was installed wrong and started falling off. I removed it and just never put it back on. The passenger side will not fit at the moment because the door needs to be realigned.
There is a tiny bit of rust re-appearing in the rear quarters, but could easily be touched up again, or left along until it got worse.
There is a hole in the floor in the back. It is where the driver side exhaust mount is. The mount is still there but it rusted through the floor. I have a piece of a floor that I cut out from another CRX at a junk yard to cut my bad section out and weld this one in. I decided to do it that way because of the exhaust mount.
Minor water leaks (mentioned above).
Door panels have the typical seat belt wear. Passenger side is very small. Driver side is decent, but I have another panel that is in better condition.
The gas tank leaks if it is full, just drips. I tried finding where and fixing it, and for a short while it seemed like I did. I gave up, and just don’t fill it all the way. I’ll run it low and then put 7 or 8 gallons in it or, or I will fill it only if I know I will be driving for another hour or so to use up enough to stop it from leaking. I had planned on replacing the tank over the winter (among other items that never happened).
There is a minor legality issue with the car in STS … SCCA rules do not say that you can remove the door trim, therefore to run without it is technically illegal. This would be fixed once they are installed again. Additionally the SCCA rules do not say that you can remove the trim around the rear windows, and therefore is illegal. You would need to cut the windows out, buy new trim ($80?), drill a hole, and glue the window back in. Yes, people have picked these issues out and threatened to protest the car over it; you know, because it just makes the car SOOO much faster. Anyways, once the trim is back on the door you will be fine there. I have a set of rear window trim (broken) from a CRX at a junk yard that I simply put inside of the rear hatch and therefore I am carrying the weight of the trim in the car, as removing these items from the car is nothing more than a weight advantage (yeah, such an advantage). That should prevent any protest in the future. I also have junk door moldings that I put in to cover myself at the present. Do not expect protests at local events …
I know of nothing else. If I think of anything else I will be sure to post it.
So that is it … and you can see I am being straightforth and honest. I am not hiding anything, thought I likely forgot something. I’ll answer any questions… I’ve sold a bunch of items on here already and you can view the feedback left.
I will work on getting the door trim installed and even fixing the hole in the floor. Possibly the driver’s door molding, and maybe putting silicone on the driver side roof and rear wiper. The tank will be up to you (I could install it if you bought one).
PRICE: $6000 Add up the parts, there is easily more than that into it.
Car is located in Weatherly, PA 18255. Car is fully licensed, insured and all. It is ready to go anywhere any day. I drive to and from events unless it is really far which I then trailer it.
I work second shift so it would be best to meet on a weekend. I am still going to take the car to some of the local autocross events until it is sold.
Best way to contact me is via e-mail; ktulay@gmail.com
