a 7 page build project page and still no pics :wtf Quit slammin keys on here and get building!
I am aware. I should have been more clear. I was originally questioning Alex where that 10.5K came from assuming the block is 100% stock when you replied that the “stock” block cost like $5K or so. That’s where I got really confused. You’re nutty with the word “stock”. 
Let me try and help…The guy who had it before me did a b16a1 swap, that motor was completly stock. The internals were not upgraded at all. The car threw a rod so now the motor is getting a complete build top and bottom, so now after that it wont be stock. Not to mention its goin to the machine shop Dave Hunts ofcourse. :banana
Pics of said rod or ban!
We havnt taken apart the motor yet…any one who wants to help let me know ;D
b16 that would be like 350-380whpwill costlike 8-10gs,and no you dont have to sleeve the block i made 500 on stock sleeves
Build yes, stock block, you can get away with like 5g’s or even less if you cut corners and the peak HP is your only goal, not the final product of the car
My vote is for you to build a very drivable car with a fat powerband and tons of suspension upgrades, rather than build a 500hp car that you don’t even want to drive because of traction issues and all that power coming at 9000rpm.
K20 :ninja
(I’m gonna get some shit for this :lol)
Only you would threaten to ban someone for not posting a pic of their rod.
To be honest im very happy with those #'s every one i tell im buliding a car they ask if im trying to beat you and brooks. And i dont need that much power :lol i want a car that will still be very street friendly you know
I’ve told him that multiple times, to put a K20 on juice in there ;D
speaking rationally, not many turbo cars are “reliable,” and “street friendly.” yes there is exceptions to this, but if you’ve seen/ owned a turbo car, you know what i mean. there are just so many factors to consider.
i’d have to say i agree with the above on dumping the $ into the handling aspects before the power.
I am not sure how you even even say this at all. If anything FI cars that make power (as opposed to NA) ARE street friendly and should be MPG friendly. For the most part, it should feel very similiar to stock off boost… I don’t get this?
I agree with Shawn… I’ve been in a few Hondas running 6-8lbs and they felt basically stock to me until they got on the throttle. Reliability is all in the tune as far as I know.
My car off boost feels exactly like it did on the street/highway (just a bit older) and I now have nearly ~400AWHP upgrade. So, I am not sure what you are talking about streetability. I just drove it last night and we have snow on the ground too. 
Dont quote me on this but i think they told me my street bOOst would be 13pds
13PSI is meaningless. It’s just back pressure. What matters is what XPSI results in Y powerband.
Well since its not done i cant put in on a dyno so…well know spring time :nod
Good luck with the build, B16a is a tough motor and should hold up well. I have not tried that turbo before but it seems pretty big, is this a street/strip car?