Shitty that it seems to have gone to hell.
I appreciate you aren’t quick to just blame everyone under the sun for its failure
I personally always run 20w50 brad penn in all my mitubishi’s. This car, I’m not entirely sure. I think I heard the previous owner said 10w30 - brad penn. At the time I didn’t care too much about it but looking back I should have changed the oil just for peace of mind. That’s my fault entirely then.
This car had the stock balancer.
No reason to blame anyone. I’m just trying to answer all the “whys” so I don’t make the same mistakes.
Motors like this basically need a rebuild every season or two. It’s a lot of power coming out of fairly small parts. It’s a real feat of engineering seeing what this little motor is capable of.
Most time there is a failure like this - it seems like the owner usually finds a scapegoat or blames someone blindly
But - Word is that car is a monster.
Looking forward to seeing it back up and going.
Good luck
That never happens!
Or that almost always happens.
As far as motor oil weight that is going to come down to engine bearing clearances and oil volume & pressure. I have built engines that make 800 hp on 0w30 and NASCAR cup engine usually run 0W or 5W oil during races because of very tight tolerances. However at those tight clearances machine work and journal alignment has to be 110%
And please at that power level do yourself a favor and get a good ATI or Fluidampr on that engine. Stock rubber is fine for 300 hp, maybe 400 hp, but above that they do more harm than good
what was the oil pressure like before it suddenly dropped? When I run my honda its got 35psi at idle warm, and 75-80psi warm at redline with a shimmed relief valve…
Started a bit of work. Oliver billet rods & JE Asymetrical FSR pistons, balanced.
Also got my block back from Klispies. Everything checked out well, including the deck surface. Also, a new (to me) crank shaft.
Today I will be mic’ing my crank, rod bearings and mains to send the crank out to be cut and balanced.
Nice, is that your rod stand and scale?
Yessir.
It kind of worked like crap until I modified it. But It does a good job helping me check how out of spec things come out from the factory. This was the first time I bought Oliver Billet rods, and they were all within .1 of a gram except one rod which was 1 gram light. :picard:
It was also the first time I bought JE pistons. Compared to the Wiseco 1400HD’s, they were more consistent, but also quite a bit lighter. I was extremely surprised at how much less meat was on the wrist pins in particular.
I wouldn’t worry about 1 gram. If it bothers you, you can match the heaviest piston combo on that connecting rod
Is that car running e85 ? …
I know that car was on e85. Not sure if it even had a pump gas tune?
1 gram isn’t bad, but it does bother me. I plan on spinning this motor to 9000rpm. I have the reciprocating weight (Small end + piston) to within .2 gram right now. My rotational weight is a little more off, but not by much. It’s better than what it would have been out of the factory.
Yes, yes it is. Is that a question because of the piston choice?
Yessir. Saw you running down the track yesterday btw, car looks good.
no that was a question towards the original issue … E85 being alcohol based will wash down cylinders and thin your oil … mainly during cold temps
Haha thanks Alex. Was running crappy ET’s as I was rolling out cause I’m still on the stock clutch, was just goin for MPH. It’s definitely gonna need a new one ASAP.
And brad penn is known to break down faster using e85. In fact they don’t recommend it to be used with the fuel but you can. You just have to change it more often and keep an eye on it better.
I was just wondering cause a friend of mine has an alcohol car and changes his oil after every pass
I typically do 1500 mile oil changes. Do you think that is often enough?
Little update… Finally got my new torque wrench (does angles!) in the mail today so I started doing some assembly work, and measuring oil clearances.
Unfortunately it seems that the align hone didn’t go so well. Consistency between my main bearings are all over the place - over .0012 difference. I’ve swapped a bunch of halves to no real change…
Called up Klispies, Kevin was more than happy to check it out for me. I’ll keep everyone posted.
have you considered sending a oil sample out to get it checked? i think schaeffer is only 25 bucks.