And the Vapor/Evap Charcoal Canister is $251.79 on RockAuto.com
If anyone could please chime in and give me some information as to what I should do/the most cost effective solution, I’d greatly appreciate it. I need my car this week so I’m kind of in a bind for time.
does it effect the way your car performs??? i removed it from all of my cars and the light doesnt even come on, if you don’t notice driveability issues fuck it, and even if it does throw the code, come inspection time, clear the codes, drive 50 miles and inspect and leave it, unless ya really wanna replace it then go ahead
Replace the entire charcoal canister unit which will come with all of those solenoids. If you went into the dealer with that problem that would be the standard repair. I had replaced at least a hundred of these when i worked in the dealer.
That’s what I’m thinking I may do, instead of spending the ~$70 on the VSV only to find out it still does not work, I’d rather put that money toward the whole unit.
Such a crappy design and location, no wonder they fail so often due to shorts and rust.
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Did I test it right, btw? Just want to make sure.
Also should I be aware of any fuses or wiring that may be shorted causing this code?
I have had the same exact P0441 code on my 2000 Prizm as well. But it’s weird that you said the light came on when the temperature dropped. I had my CEL on and kept clearing it and it would come back every 500 miles or so. But now that the weather has turned colder, it hasn’t come on in quite some time knocks on wood. So I have just left it and I’m sure come Spring or the next really warm day it will be back. BTW, mine stalls out once on start up after filling the tank. Then starts up fine afterward. Does yours do the same? Just curious, I’ll have to check back on this because eventually down the line I’ll probably need to do this as well.
No I’ve had no issues at all with the car until this came up, I don’t think the cold had to do anything with it going bad, just bad timing in my opinion. The car is drivable as is with the codes but will fail emissions/get slightly less gas mileage because of it. Also I’m tired of smelling rich exhaust whenever I’m idling or starting it up.
Well from reading up on it I saw that most people found their lights to stay off longer or not come back at all during the winter months. But maybe your case is worse than mine, who knows. Stupid emissions crap!
Yeah lol, what looks like happened is the metal bracket surrounding the VSV rusted so bad that it expanded and cracked the VSV itself. Poor design on Toyota’s part for putting it underneath the car exposed to elements. Later models had this entire assembly under the hood.
edit- Speaking of the rust, man these cars just love to pack snow/slush into the fenders walls.
double edit- FWIW, I’ve also read of people kinda fabbing up a metal shield around the canister area to help prevent crap and other road elements from getting to it.
It’s a 2000 and the original part just failed. If you expect to still have this car in another 11 to 12 years I’d consider this, otherwise replace it and figure the car will be gone long before you need another one.
This car cost all of $1200 so I’m not too upset to put money into it if it needs it, it’s been reliable thus far. I wouldn’t bother fabricating anything up though, this is a DD/beater for a reason lol.
Ordered the VSV itself, after checking over everything I decided to tear into the assembly…why not right?
Here’s what I found after removing the VSV and cracking off the rusted bracket:
There’s a tiny crack that let rust get in, seized the valve itself and caused the failure. Saved me a TON of money over buying the whole evap canister. :tup:
That is definitely a huge savings. Let me know if that doesn’t end up doing the trick or if it fails again down the line. I would just be curious as eventually I’ll probably have to fix mine.
