You won’t ever catch shit at lvd for it, I wouldn’t worry one way or another lmao.
Nope I am not worried about it. I dont plan on taking this thing anywhere but T&T’s and what not.
Orly?? :lol
I want a case of beer from Brett, shit better run a 10.5! :rofl
you had better be praying to the traction gods !!
and the axle gods, and gearset gods, and vw gods because a 10 second mk4 is a rare bird. takes alot to get there.
VW is a solid 5 years behind the honda world as far as drag racing is concerned.
So put Lisa Kubo and JoJo behind the wheel, and get StreetGlow as a sponsor maybe… then we will talk business haha
cant wait to watch krazy kid run high 11’s
12.2’s.
Yeah prolly 12s
But we don’t know anything about the track Matt.
oH YEA. Nothing at all.
:rofl
looks like your making nice progress should be a cool VW when it’s done.
Couldnt have said it better! :thumbup
I might have been thinking that, but hopefully not. A friend of mine has a slightly modded 1.8T and it scoots along pretty good for what it is.
Thats honestly my goals first few times out. I aint got a clue what I am doing on the track… so ill have to work out the jitters. Fuck I bet it will take me a few passes to break 13.0.
updates are coming here in a few also… just got to work, gotta unload the pics in a few.
We’ll take turns breaking the sound barrier!
Then we will work to beat the speed on light!
But I would like to line up with some of the Shift folks and see whats what!!
DC
I cant wait for that too! Some haters out there, Darrly they dont think we got what it takes. :rofl
dont try to sell your cookies before you finish baking them.
the mk4 chassis is pretty dumpy. front suspension needs a major rework. spherical bearings, and custom tubular lower control arms are a good place to start. otherwise they flex alot.
We are addressing the entire front end, prior to hitting the track.
On the list are:
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Solid aluminum bushings spun on a lathe to replace the rubber ones hanging the subframe to the unibody
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fully welding the subframe halfs together, and adding some tubing to prevent flex.
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heim joint / tubular dog bone to controll engine movement and adjust the clocking & preload on the motor mounts.
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start with fully welding the lower control arms like the subframe idea. R32 bushing. If that doesnt work, I make a jig and make some DOM tubing LCA’s with heims.
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solid frame horn conectors to keep the frame from twisting.
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We might even come up with something special if we have the room under there to pull it off… aint letting that cat out of the bag yet.