nice to see some progress :tup:
Finally got the hood to shut…alot of cutting and a small dent in the hood lets it fit under perfectly.
Next step will be going to ferry hydralic to get my custom a/c lines made and power steering hose. to complete the two most important component to this build lol. this ride is built for stock comfort and power!!!
WOW
awesome. youve made some serious progress really quickly. :tup: !!!
Charge Harness is Complete.
Hopefully all the A/C Lines and Power Steering Hose will be done tomorrow.
Im trying to figure out how to wire in the oem mobilizer into the conversion harness i have and its harder then expected so i might have to wait for a prewired bypass.
Should have the Mounting Kit install tomorrow.
I only get abour 2hr each day to work on it as time is very limited right now.
good progress :tup:
Some progress today
Only Things left to do
Install the Mounting Kit
Install Conversion Harness
Install Immoblizer Bypass
Fill Up Fluids, Start Up, Drive to get Exhaust Mid-Pipe done
Would like to take it to lancaster thursday so hopefully its up and running by then.
:tup:
Only got 1 thing done on that list. Mouting kit installed.
Got all the conversion harness and fluid all filled
Installed Immobilizer
Put in the battery…and the problems arised…
The condenser fan turned right on when battery was connected.
I have to look further into it
Went to go start the car…all it does is crank over.
Fuel pump primes
Fuel gauge say 40psi
Cranks 3 times didnt start so i got to see if the immobilizer is bad. which im 95% sure its the problem. as it controlls the spark and fuel injectors. I havent looked into checkin to see if there fuel or spark but taht is what i assume. But i ordered a new immobilizer bypass and see if it works out will test again middle of the week.
This weekend im going to just be cleaning up the car and gett it to a point where i will be ready to drive it as soon as the immobilizer is installed.
It was indeed the immobilizer got it up and running has a idle surge so i going to figure that out now
Exhaust is on
The Heater core is leaking…from being bent by previous owner…dam them!
and no heat.
trying to sort out what ccould be wrong with no heat.
I also found out that the bottom end is a K20Z1 not a K20A2…Im trying to find out if that affects the performance or anything like that.
Anyone know?
not really any differences, no heat sounds like coolant needs to be bleed as its a major pita to bleed the coolant on these motors
hey saxon, looks like no fluids moving through the cooling system. top of radiato hose is burning hot. lower hose is cool not even warm. disconnected heater hose to see if fluid was flowing…nothing comes out of the ports. im gonna read up on how to bleed this system.
I was going to remove the themostate completely and see if that lets the system move through. i think its not letting the coolant into the engine.
could be a shot thermostat.
doubt the thermostat is hot, you just have to jack the car up in the front as high as possible, start the car and turn on the heat on and off, let the car get up to temperature, shut down, cool off, add fluids
keep doing that and repeat untill you get it… I absolutely love the K series but bleeding the coolant and weak transmissions with big power are some of its downfalls
i drove the car for 15min and tranny felt good no 2nd gear grind so im happy.
it doesnt feel that fast for some odd reason.
I got a check engine light i got to pull the code tomorrow to see what is up.
and the 70A Street/Drag Inserts for the Hasport…are excellent i love the car motor feel.
could be a couple codes not letting you engage vtec…
dont forget these motors wake up ALOT with tuning
I wanna run against you when it’s done.
was this the car the axle busted on?
Vtec does kick in around 6200rpm. and everytime i look at the rpm on my civic it redlines at 7000rpm i get scared shitless but then i come to the realization that is not the redline for the k20 hahah
The code was for a P0600 which is very common in these swap if im using a oem immobilizer from what i have read it does NOT affect the driveablity or anything like that its just a multiplexor code which is nothing engine related.
The surging problem was from air pocket in the system i took out the thermostat, and the coolant is circulating now so its definitely a problem with the themostat,
Im concern that the fluid is not reaching the themostat for it to sense the temperature so it can open up. That what i think could be the problem the thermostate does sense the hot coolant for it to open up.
sounds good when ever i can get it all together without any more issues! lol
Yes this was it. Axles that i got were too short. 1 inches to short to be exact. so it popped out the inner axle and felt like the car aws going to shake it self to pieces thank god i was only going 5mph. scared the shit out of me.
ya multiplexor code is common
throw the thermostat in boiling water and see if it opens, im willing to bet it was just an air pocket causing it not to open and not circulate